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The Amazing Love Story that Saved the Ponte Vecchio in Florence!

My writing includes my personal travel experiences, destination, history, and cultural information.

Giardino Bardini, Firenze, Italy

Giardino Bardini, Firenze, Italy

The first time I was in Times Square, I couldn't see everything fast enough! Standing there looking at the lights and signage put me on total sensory overload! I was like a child!. Fast forward to Florence, Italy. Sans the lights and signage, it was the same child-like wonderment. What was I going to see first? How would I see it all? Could I see it all? The short answer is "No". You can not see everything in Florence in a day, two days, or five days! That's why I have returned several times and still have not seen it all!

A Bit about Florence

Florence is located in central Italy and is the capital of Tuscany. Thought to be the birthplace of the Renaissance, it has evolved into a hub for academics, it is also a major artistic, cultural, commercial, political, economic, and financial center. The Florentine dialect is the basis of the standard for the Italian language. Ranked 15th as the fashion capital in the world, it clearly plays an important role in Italian fashion, with many Haute Couture fashion houses located within the city.

In 2010, Forbes ranked this amazing city of Florence as the #1 most beautiful city in the world. Walking around the historic area, it is easy to see why it was given this designation. Having numerous museums, walking the streets is, in my opinion, can be likened to walking through an outdoor museum.

Historical Overview

Florence is one of those cities whose past is checkered by political turbulence. As in many cases, political turbulence is born of corruption. Add in family rivalries and you have the equation which equals Florentine history.

The Medici family did and still has, a strong influence on the ebbs and flows of Florence. Their rise began around 1325. A family of great importance and wealth, with their hands in many economic aspects of Florence, Cosimo de' Medici was the first family member to rise to any significant power. It is said, that from behind the scenes, he controlled everything in the city. The Medici family not only gave us two Popes but also wed into and gave birth to European royalty. The family was also known to be huge patrons of the arts and commissioned works by the great Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Botticelli.

By 1492, the Medici family fell from grace due to a miscalculation by Piero II and the invasion of the French army. Piero II's sin was failing to calculate the strength of the French armies which led to the death of many Florentines. And, it is for this reason, that he was exiled. In 1531, the family rose to power again but only until 1737.

From 1737 until the 20th century, rulership and country allegiance changed several times. The city was occupied and under the control of Austria and then France during this period of time. During the Second World War, Germany occupied Florence for about one year.

The Ponte Vecchio Bridge:

Portions of Florence are separated by the Arno River. Ultimately, Florence was liberated by New Zealand, South African, and British troops on 4 August 1944. In early August, as British troops began to approach Florence, Hitler ordered the demolition of all bridges which connected the city to be demolished, thereby, making it difficult for the Brits to enter.

The Ponte Vecchio Bridge

The Ponte Vecchio Bridge

As a result of a last-minute plea, the Ponte Vecchio bridge was spared from demolition. Now, here is where the story varies. If you speak with a Florentine, romantic at heart, they will relate the story like this:

A top-ranking soldier in the Nazi German army, who had the ear and trust of Hitler, made a personal plea to have the bridge spared. Why? Because of its aesthetic value and he had a special lady friend that he had met at the foot of the bridge. Hitler, feeling this was a beautiful story, spared the bridge from demolition even though explosives were already in place.

Documented history tells this story:

At the last moment Charles Steinhauslin, an important European counselor, convinced a German general in Italy that the Ponte Vecchio was not to be destroyed due to its historical value. Instead, the areas surrounding the bridge entry on both sides were destroyed, still disabling the ability to cross the bridge.

The Ponte Vecchio remained the only bridge not destroyed in Florence. However, there is yet another legend told about the infamous bridge:

The Amazing Love Story of the Ponte Vecchio:

The history of the lovelocks dates back to WWII in a small Serbian town. A couple named Nada and Relja were madly in love until the war broke out and Relja enlisted. Despite Nada’s faithful commitment to Relja’s return, he fell in love with another woman. According to the legend, Nada died of heartbreak and village girls began attaching padlocks to the bridge where the couple used to spend their time. The girls would engrave their names alongside their lover’s and throw away the key with hopes doing so would ensure their love would last forever and that their beloved would not leave them as Relja had left Nada.

The story as told by: Famous Love Lock Bridges: The Ponte Vecchio

There is a bronze bust of Cellini on top of a fountain in the middle of the Eastern side of the bridge. These love locks are placed around the statue and there are thousands of them. Cellini was the sculptor who created Medusa. I feel like the love locks around his bust are a bit ironic. Understand that Cellini was known to be a philanderer and even faced criminal charges of a sexual nature. The fact that the love locks signify true love, doesn't seem to mesh with the reputation that Cellini had.

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According to the regulations in Florence, it is now illegal to place a love lock on the bridge. Getting caught doing so can result in a citation and a monetary fine. I've read several articles that state that the locks have been removed. But at least the last time I visited, the locks were still there and available for purchase from vendors stationed on the bridge itself.

Love Locks of the Ponte Vecchio Bridge

Love Locks of the Ponte Vecchio Bridge

My Time in this Amazing City

The Museums:

Every time that I have had the pleasure of spending time in Florence, the weather has been absolutely spectacular! This is wonderful but at the same time, not so good. Recalling what I said at the onset of this article, walking around Florence is like spending the day in an outdoor museum. It is truly amazing. The flip side to that is that since the weather has always been so inviting to the outdoors, I have never been to any of the famous museums in Florence; the Uffizi Gallery (housing the Botticelli's Birth of Venus) and the Galleria dell'Accademia (known for its huge collection of work by Michelangelo). These are the two most famous and visited museums. For a list of the museums in Florence, CLICK HERE.

Another reason I have not been to the museums is that they are enormously popular with tourists and even with pre-paid skip-the-line tickets, the wait to get in is often hours. Once inside, to properly view just the museum "highlights", you are looking at spending about 4 hours in each museum. I feel like going to Florence during the cooler wintery months would be ideal to spend time indoors wandering through Renaissance history and admiring the works of the renowned artists of the last centuries.

Arriving:

In visiting Florence, my starting point has been the port of Livorno, which is about 95 kilometers away. The quickest way to get from the port to the city center is by private driver. The ride is about an hour and a half. Getting from point A to point B, you also have the option of a bus or train which both can take about two and a half hours. If you are arriving by cruise, there is a very good possibility your cruise line will provide transportation at little to no cost.


A great video that brings to life, Florence, a fabulous city, capital of the Tuscan region in central Italy. Enjoy!

The Fabulous Outdoor World We Call Florence

Piazza della Signoria:

The best way to experience Florence is on foot. Walking from one end of the historic center to the other takes about 30 minutes. The roads are narrow and many are set up for pedestrian-only traffic.

Piazza della Signoriais is considered the main square of Florence. It has played a prominent part in the history of the city, especially from a political point of view. Here you will find throngs of tourists admiring such works of art as the David (the original is in the Uffizzi), Hercules and Cacus, Nettuno and Loggia dei Lanzi.

Replica of David by Michaelangelo

Replica of David by Michaelangelo

Bandinelli's Hercules and Cacus

Bandinelli's Hercules and Cacus

Perseo Holding the Head of Medusa

Perseo Holding the Head of Medusa

Within Piazza della Signoria, you can also visit the Florence Town Hall, also known as, Palazzo Vecchio. This Fortress is one of the most significant public places in Italian history. In front of the Palazzo Vecchio is a plaque marking the site of the execution of Fra Girolamo Savonarola, who ruled Florence until his ex-communication by the Vatican. It is said he was a theological tyrant.

Duomo di Firenze:

Walking from one Piazza to the next, you stroll past cafes, vendors, and sculptures from the days of the Renaissance. I say it takes 30 minutes from one end of the historic center to the other but that means not stopping for anything! No gazing at the works of art, no coffee, no vendor shopping, nothing but walking. That shouldn't be your experience in Florence! You can't enjoy Florence on the Evelyn Woods tourist plan, folks!

The Duomo di Firenze is said to be the most beautiful dome in Florence. It can be seen from almost anywhere in the city, standing high above everything else. It is also known as Santa Maria del Fiore. During the Renaissance, the engineering and construction of the dome were considered miraculous. Within the Duomo, there are plenty of things to see and do: the Baptistry, Giotto's Tower, and climbing the 464 steps inside the Dome.

Enjoying my Time in Florence

Florence is one of those places where you can stroll, admire, have a chat, grab a coffee, eat some delicious food, and relax. Or, you can methodically check the fabulous works of art off your list, making the visit more work than enjoyment. Spending your time in the museums is also an option. I prefer the more relaxed approach. That being said, I have always had the luxury of knowing that I would return to Florence. I knew I would be back to see what I had overlooked or missed. One experience I enjoy over and over is going to the Ponte Vecchio Bridge.

Ponte Vecchio Bridge:

Having discussed the history and legends of the Ponte Vecchio above, I didn't want to forget to mention the experience of crossing the bridge. Stretching across the Arno River, it is one of the 6 bridges in Florence.

The Ponte Vecchio bridge was actually the first bridge built in Florence and dates back to medieval times. At the time the bridge was built, it was not unusual for the chapels and shops to be built on top of the bridges. They were, after all, entryways to the cities. Because they were entryways to the cities, it was also not unusual for them to have fortification towers to protect the city. Once again, the common theme that I have discussed in other articles is true here as well; this is NOT the original bridge. Twice, the bridge has been destroyed by floods from the Arno River and has been re-built. Today, you see the third version of the bridge.

What is unusual about this bridge is that it still has shops and businesses on top

Stroll by the Shops Located Atop the Ponte Vecchio Bridge

Stroll by the Shops Located Atop the Ponte Vecchio Bridge

Fun Fact:

The Ponte Vecchio has been home to shops across its span since the 13th century. Merchants would sell their goods on tables after receiving approval to do so from the proper authorities. When a merchant couldn’t pay his debts, the table on which he sold his wares (the "banco") was physically broken ("rotto") by soldiers, effectively shutting down their business. This practice was called "bancorotto" and is believed that the economic concept of bankruptcy originated here.

Source: Amusing Planet

Originally, the shops on the bridge were butchers, fishermen, and tanners. The odor from the products and their waste became terribly foul. Eventually, the shops were replaced by goldsmiths and jewelers. Those are the same types of shops you will find today as you stroll across this pedestrian-only bridge. In fact, on one of my visits to Florence, I purchased a handmade leather purse crafted by none other than the Medici brand, the family that is still considered the most powerful family in Italian history.

And don't forget to take a look at the love locks as you cross the bridge! It's one of my favorite parts of Florence.

An Open Air Museum Everywhere you Look in Historic Florence

An Open Air Museum Everywhere you Look in Historic Florence

I Have Sat Beneath These Arches Many Times Enjoying a Coffee and a Pastry!

I Have Sat Beneath These Arches Many Times Enjoying a Coffee and a Pastry!

My Impressions of Florence

I have had the opportunity to visit countless cities in over 49 countries and Florence is one of the bright spots of my travel adventures! There is just something about Florence that draws you back, time and time again. The people are lovely, the sites are unmatchable, and the food is delicious. Oh, yes, and the shopping is amazing! I cannot forget the shopping!

Walking through what is referred to as the largest open-air museum in the world, the historic center of Florence is like stepping back in time. In Florence, you become the benefactor of the remarkable and well-preserved Renaissance works of art as if they have been casually strewn about the city simply for your admiration! It's a history lesson that you don't even realize you are participating in until you have left. John Steinbeck said of Positano: "It will beckon you after you have left". I feel this way about Florence!

I remember the first time I stood in front of Perseo holding the head of Medusa...... a gruesome depiction but beyond that, the detail and mastery of the piece are indescribable. The Statue is huge and imposing, kind of scary looking. But, an accurate depiction of the time in which it was created.

Everywhere you turn, every place you enter, you know that the masters of art preceded you. They walked the same steps and are immortalized by their unique talents! I humbly ask you to travel and explore our amazing world; to live Mallory's Dream!

Until next time friends, remember "To Travel is to Live!"

Until next time friends, remember "To Travel is to Live!"

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