Updated date:

The Magic of Cumberland Island

Author:

I really enjoy traveling, especially to destinations with beaches. I’ve visited scores of beaches and islands in the Gulf of Mexico and in the Atlantic Ocean, along with a few in the Caribbean. I’ve experienced some amazing shorelines, and each had its own unique appeal. Among my travels, however, I haven’t found anywhere with the fascinating history, the mystique, and the pristine natural beauty of Cumberland Island. Luckily for me, this charming isle is practically in my own back yard.

Cumberland Island is located just off the coast of Georgia. One of the state’s “Golden Isles,” it’s Georgia’s largest barrier island. Cumberland is more than seventeen miles long, covering 36,415 acres of maritime forest, sand dunes, marsh, meandering tidal creeks, and ancient live oaks gnarled and sculpted by the salt breezes from the Atlantic and adorned with lacy Spanish moss.

Cumberland Island is a superb vacation spot, whether you’re lodging at the beautiful Greyfield Inn or camping at one of the island’s campgrounds. Even if you have only a few hours to spare, you can spend an afternoon on the island to experience its wonder. Visitors can swim in the gentle surf, play on the seventeen miles of pristine beaches, hike some of the fifty miles of trails, fish, bird watch, collect shells and fossilized sharks’ teeth, view wildlife in its natural habitat, or walk among the ruins of once-splendid mansions, the old cemetery, or the Ice House Museum.

There are no real roads on the island, but bike rentals are available. You won’t find any fast-food restaurants or stores on Cumberland, either, and the only way to reach this island paradise is by boat or ferry. A trip to Cumberland Island is a real “back to nature” experience – one you’ll never forget!

 

Cumberland has more than 17 miles of beaches.

Cumberland has more than 17 miles of beaches.

Windswept dunes

Windswept dunes

History

Cumberland Island has a fascinating history. The first people to inhabit the island were native tribes, who settled there around 2,000 BC. Soon after, the Timucuans arrived, creating structured villages. They called the island “Missoe,” meaning “beautiful.” The largest of these villages was Tacatacura, which was located near the southern tip of the isle.

In 1562, French explorers landed on Missoe and became friends with the Timucuans. Four years later, eighty Spanish explorers came ashore and built crude fortresses. They named the island “San Pedro.” When Spanish missionaries followed their countrymen to San Pedro in order to convert the indigenous people to Christianity, the Timucuans viewed this move as an affront to their French allies and promptly murdered the Jesuits. In view of this act, along with the harsh living conditions, all the Spaniards left the island in 1573.

In 1578, another group of Spanish missionaries arrived – the Franciscans. The Timucuans accepted this group, and in 1587, a successful mission named San Pedro de Mocama was established. By 1595, another Spanish mission had been built.

In 1597, there was a revolt by the Guale tribe on the mainland near Cumberland. When the missions were threatened by the Guales, the Timucuans successfully defended them. Both missions, however, were soon abandoned by the Spanish. They returned in 1603 and built the San Pedro de Mocama Church.

In 1683, French pirates landed, burning most of the villages. The missionaries and most of the Timucuans fled the island in fear. The few that remained were subjected to more horrors when the Spanish pirate, Thomas Jingle, arrived in 1684. The Timucuans abandoned the island completely, and the Yemassi took their place.

General James Oglethorpe landed on the Georgia coast in 1733 and found Cumberland on one of his local explorations. One of his companions, a young Creek named Toonahowi, named the island “Cumberland” after William Augustus, the Duke of Cumberland. Toonahowi had befriended the thirteen-year-old duke on his visit to England. In 1736, the English built Fort St. Andrews on the island, and Oglethorpe erected a hunting lodge that he named “Dungeness.” In 1740, the English established another fort on Cumberland – Fort Prince William. These forts were built to protect the English settlements from the Spanish in nearby Florida.

English fortifications were also constructed on a nearby island, St. Simons. In 1742, the Spanish invaded the area in an effort to regain control of the coastal lands, but the Spaniards were defeated in the Battle of Bloody Marsh. Before they were thwarted, however, the invading forces destroyed Fort St. Andrews.

In 1748, Cumberland Island became neutral territory – controlled by neither England nor Spain. This lack of protection opened the door for scores of criminals and social misfits, and the island became a refuge for outlaws.

In 1763, royal land grants divided much of the land on Cumberland, but few people were willing to gamble moving to the island. In fact, when naturalist William Bartram landed on Cumberland in 1774, he found it all but abandoned.

In 1783, Nathaniel Greene scouted Cumberland for live oaks to be used in ship building. He found an abundant supply of suitable trees, so he purchased land on the island. Trees from Cumberland were used in the construction of the USS Constitution, fondly known as “Old Ironsides.”

After Greene’s death, his widow, Catherine, married Phineas Miller, and in 1796, they built a four-story mansion and named it “Dungeness,” in honor of Oglethorpe’s original lodge. The structure was built of tabby – a mixture of crushed oyster shells, lime, and sand. The walls were six-feet thick, and the mansion included sixteen fireplaces and was surrounded by acres of gardens. The Millers became the first planters on the island, growing cotton and harvesting the stately oaks.

When the War of 1812 broke out, the British occupied Cumberland and used Dungeness as their military headquarters. Two years later, Catherine Greene Miller died, leaving her land on Cumberland to her daughter, Louisa Shaw. The Shaws continued to grow cotton, but they also began growing oranges and olives in the fertile soil. Other plantations soon sprang up and were worked by African slaves.

In 1862, during the U.S. Civil War, Union troops occupied Cumberland Island. At the close of the war, Dungeness was burned. Once the war had ended, most of the plantation owners were allowed to return to their former lands, and the fields were now tended by freed blacks.

In 1871, the Miller land fell into the hands of Edmund Molyneux, who sold it to General William George Mackay Davis the next year. In 1881, Davis sold the land to Thomas Carnegie, the brother of Andrew Carnegie. Thomas and his wife rebuilt Dungeness in 1885. When he died a year later, his land was left to his wife, Lucy Coleman Carnegie.

By this time, a good number of blacks lived on Cumberland, descendants of slaves, and in 1893, the First African Baptist Church was constructed. On weekdays, the church doubled as a school. The church was rebuilt in the 1930s and served as the site for the wedding of John F. Kennedy, Jr. and Carolyn Bessette in September of 1996.

In 1898, a mansion was built for Lucy Carnegie’s son, George Lauder Carnegie. The edifice was named “Plum Orchard.” In 1900, another mansion, Greyfield House, was begun for Lucy Carnegie’s daughter, Margaret. By 1928, the Carnegie family owned almost the entirety of Cumberland Island.

By 1955, Cumberland Island had received much attention from historians. The U.S. Government took note and declared the island second only to Cape Cod as the most historically significant location along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts.

In 1959, the newest Dungeness mansion was set afire, probably by a poacher who was wounded by an overseer while the hunter was shooting deer. The ruins can still be viewed today.

In 1972, the island was proclaimed a National Seashore, and much of the land was purchased by the federal government.

Ruins of Dungeness.

Ruins of Dungeness.

Plum Orchard

Plum Orchard

Birds and Wildlife

Cumberland Island is rich in wildlife, and a wide variety of birds can be seen in the trees and wading along the shore. More than 350 avian species have been recorded here. Since the island is on the transatlantic migratory flyway, many birds stop at Cumberland for a rest. Rare and endangered species, including Wilson’s plover, the American Oystercatcher, and the least tern, are often spotted. Other interesting species that might be seen are wood storks, peregrine falcons, osprey, ibises, golden eagles, and bald eagles.

While strolling along one of the oak-canopied sandy trails on Cumberland, there’s no telling what kind of “critter” you might catch a glimpse of. It could be a stealthy bobcat, an opossum, an armadillo, a feral pig, an elusive wild turkey, or a whitetail deer with a pair of wide-eyed fawns.

More than 350 bird species have been recorded on Cumberland Island.

More than 350 bird species have been recorded on Cumberland Island.

Deer are numerous on the island.

Deer are numerous on the island.

Cumberland birds and wildlife:

Feral Horses

One of the most popular attractions on the island is its herd of feral horses. Historians disagree on how and when the equine group came to the island, but it’s believed that they’re descendants of Spanish mounts brought to Cumberland in the sixteenth century. Other barrier islands scattered along the U.S. Atlantic coast are home to feral horses, including Chincoteague and Assateague Islands, along with North Carolina’s Outer Banks. The horses on Cumberland, however, are different. Instead of pony-like equines with short legs and wooly coats, the Cumberland Island horses are tall and leggy, and in the warmer months, they display slick coats.

Today, there are around 150 feral horses on Cumberland. They can be seen just about anywhere on the island, from galloping along the beach to nibbling on grass around historic ruins. They seem to embody the wild, free spirit that is Cumberland Island.

 

Feral horses roam the island.

Feral horses roam the island.

Marine Life

The waters surrounding Cumberland are rich and fertile. Loggerhead sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs beginning in mid-spring and continuing until early fall. Even though each female might lay as many as 100 eggs, few of the hatchlings survive until adulthood. Nests on Cumberland are documented and protected to ensure future generations of loggerheads.

 

Manatees can occasionally be seen along the coast, but dolphins are a frequent sight. These playful marine mammals can often be seen frolicking in the waves, and some come very close to shore, allowing visitors to the island a close encounter.

 

Cumberland waters are also home to numerous sharks. In fact, the largest population of sharks on the U.S. Atlantic coast can be found here, including some real giants. Just off the northern tip of the island is a deep depression known as the “Eighty Foot Hole,” where some of the largest sharks in the entire Atlantic frequent. Fortunately, only one human attack has been recorded. The incident occurred in less than two feet of water, when a woman was bitten on the hand.

 

Sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs.

Sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs.

Dolphins are a common sight.

Dolphins are a common sight.

Large sharks prowl the waters around Cumberland.

Large sharks prowl the waters around Cumberland.

Fishing

Angling is one of the favorite pastimes for visitors to the island. Fishing from shore or wading into the surf can produce catches of flounder, redfish, puppy drum, spotted seatrout, whiting, croaker, sheepshead, tripletail, ladyfish, sharks, and the occasional tarpon. One of the best places to fish for saltwater species is along the rock jetty at the southern end of the island. Because of the mild climate, fishing is productive year round on Cumberland.

In addition to saltwater fishing, there are several freshwater ponds in the island’s interior. The largest, 83-acre Lake Whitney, offers great angling for bass and bream. If you choose to fish in one of the freshwater ponds, be careful – they’re home to alligators and cottonmouth moccasins.

Cumberland Island provides great fishing.

Cumberland Island provides great fishing.

Tarpon landed just off Cumberland beach:

Camping

Campers are welcome on the island for up to seven days at the time. Cumberland offers both developed campgrounds and primitive camping.

Sea Camp and Stafford Campground both have restrooms, fire pits, and cold-water showers. Sea Camp also offers picnic tables, a boardwalk to the beach, grills, and an amphitheater where educational programs are presented by park rangers. Camping fees for Sea Camp and Stafford Campground are $4.00 per night, per person.

Primitive camping can be done at three backcountry locations. These sites provide no facilities, and fires are not permitted. The nightly fee for primitive camping is $2.00 per person.

 

Camping is popular on the island.

Camping is popular on the island.

Greyfield Inn

If roughing it isn’t your idea of a great vacation, make reservations at Greyfield Inn on Cumberland. Built in 1900, this former Carnegie home was converted to a hotel in 1962 and is still operated by the Carnegie descendants.

Greyfield is the epitome of Southern elegance, filled with antiques and original works of art. The bedrooms are beautifully appointed, and some include clawfoot tubs and sweeping views of the marsh. The wide front porch is equipped with swings and rocking chairs, providing guests with a relaxing place to soak up the sights and the atmosphere.

Meals are included with your stay at Greyfield Inn, and they are legendary, in true Southern fashion. They include hearty breakfasts, picnic lunches, and candlelit dinners. Every afternoon, hors d’oeuvres and cocktails are served in the oceanfront bar, and the inn boasts an impressive wine cellar.

 

Greyfield Inn

Greyfield Inn

Inside the inn

Inside the inn

Getting There

Private boats are allowed to dock at Cumberland Island for a small fee, but most visitors choose to take the ferry. To catch the Cumberland Island Ferry, you’ll need to travel to St. Marys, Georgia – just eight miles east of Interstate 95, via GA exit 1 or 3. The ferry runs daily March-November, and in the winter months, it runs five days a week. The ride over the sound takes just 45 minutes, and it’s almost as enjoyable as visiting the island itself.

Many kayakers make the trip to Cumberland, too, and kayaking is a great way to explore the marshes and estuaries. If you decide to kayak or canoe to Cumberland, check the weather first. The sound is usually calm, but it can get rough in inclement weather.

 

Learn more about Cumberland Island:

  • A Day at Cumberland Island
    Cumberland Island National Seashore - Operating Hours & Seasons (U.S. National Park Service) Operating Hours & Seasons Even though my family has lived in Georgia for many years, we had never been to...

Comments

Clarice Lott on July 05, 2018:

Husband, son and grandson have visited Cumberland a few times. Grandpa-grandson, dad and son hunts. They loved it.

SO much history, beauty, and pristine.

Thanks

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on November 19, 2010:

Thanks for reading!

Abdinasir Aden from Minneapolis, MN on November 15, 2010:

This is beautiful hub with beautiful pictures and video. I really enjoyed. I am proud to be your followers. Please visit my hub. Thanks for sharing.

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on November 11, 2010:

Thanks, Sameerk!

Eth, great to see ya, girlfriend!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on November 11, 2010:

Thanks a bunch, Susan! I'll do the same.

Ethel Smith from Kingston-Upon-Hull on November 06, 2010:

looks a beautiful peaceful place

sameerk from India on November 06, 2010:

awesome hub

Susan Sisk from Georgia, USA on November 04, 2010:

Great hub. I recently wrote about my trip to Cumberland Island. I didn't include history since you had it covered so well. I added a link to your hub. Hope that is OK.

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 26, 2010:

Coolmon, glad you enjjoyed the "trip" to Cumberland Island!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 26, 2010:

Top, thanks for reading!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 26, 2010:

Pam, thanks for stopping by!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 26, 2010:

Kaie, Cumberland Island is an awesome place to visit!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 26, 2010:

KK - such a sweet thing to say!

Coolmon2009 from Texas, USA on October 22, 2010:

I enjoyed reading your article on Cumberland Island. Thanks for the information on this destination.

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 22, 2010:

Teresa, glad you enjoyed it!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 22, 2010:

Ictodd, thanks for reading!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 22, 2010:

Chris, you should check it out!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 22, 2010:

Judi, I haven't been to Sapelo in decades! I need to return.

TopUniverse on October 16, 2010:

The island looks solid to enjoy. By the way you got some cool pictures.

Pamela Oglesby from Sunny Florida on October 13, 2010:

Habee, What a gorgeous place and you did a beautiful job sharing that beauty with all of us. Thanks.

Kaie Arwen on October 12, 2010:

Habee ~ Fabulous history, beautiful scenery, and best of all............ shoreline! Looks like a great place to relax............ thank you ~ Kaie

Susan Hazelton from Sunny Florida on October 11, 2010:

Habee, you truly have a way with words. And I love your beautiful pictures, they have a way of making you feel as though you are there. Thanks so much for sharing.

eventsyoudesign from Nashville, Tennessee on October 10, 2010:

Wow! Beautiful pictures. I was enthralled by them. I wish I could visit Cumberland Island today. Great article. Teresa

Linda Todd from Charleston on October 09, 2010:

Another great hub and wonderful information about Cumberland Island. It seems to be a perfect place to get away from it all. Thank you for sharing.

carolina muscle from Charlotte, North Carolina on October 05, 2010:

No.. I haven't been there yet, but I feel like I have after reading this post!! Great job, Habee!!

Judicastro from birmingham, Alabama on October 04, 2010:

Habee- great hub girl!! While living on st simons Chris and I kept saying that we were going to take that boat trip one of these days and go to Cumberland island. Alas we have moved back to Alabama and with my daughter moving away from Jax, it doesn't look like we'll make it any time soon. I did however take the ferry to sapelo island, right off the coast from Darien, ga. Very interesting island too. Have you been there?

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

scla, thanks so much for reading!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Nifty, GA is fortunate to have this pristine island!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Anglnwu, you should visit!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Deb, Cumberland Island is like another world!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

50, great to see you!!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

mtsi, I like your new word!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Thanks, Sheila. How ya been?

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Thanks, Simone!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Mquee, you guys will love it!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

De Greek, that would be GA - famous for its peanuts! lol

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Mick, I didn't know you were such a great dancer!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Brian, the wild horses are my fave!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Thanks, MPG!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

HH, always great to see you!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Thanks, Chris! Have you been to Cumberland Island?

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Images, I enjoy "chair travel," also! lol

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

2be, you'd love Cumberland Island!

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on October 04, 2010:

Thanks, Prasetio!

scla from Southern California on October 03, 2010:

Wonderful information about an area that is probably not well known by most people. I am always interested in learning about new areas and the history behind it. It is definitely beautiful and the history creates a certain mystique and wonder about it.

nifty@50 on October 03, 2010:

Thanks for the awesome hub Habee, here's a great travel destination in my own back yard!

anglnwu on October 02, 2010:

Beautiful pictures and great historical facts. Cumberland island seems quite a place to visit for sure. Awesome!

DeBorrah K Ogans on October 01, 2010:

Habee, Nice Hub! Interesting history on Cumberland Island! This really seems like a wonderful quaint place to retreat and get away from it all... Thank you for sharing, Peace & Blessings!

50 Caliber from Arizona on October 01, 2010:

Holle what a great place to visit. I like the bands of wild horses that are left out here, I'd like to see them in an island setting as well, 50

mtsi1098 on October 01, 2010:

A fascinating adventure and Missoe-ly done (this probably is not a word so don't try spell checking it). Sounds like a great camp outing and I will stay out of the water :) ...thanks

bayoulady from Northern Louisiana,USA on September 30, 2010:

habee, They should hire you at their tourism bureau to write press, brochures, and etc. for them! Your reports of beaches, attractions, accomodations, the horses, and videos(especially your trip) were invaluable. Anyone that finds this article will have all their questions answered! RATE UP! AWESOME!

sheila b. on September 29, 2010:

It does sound like a magic island.

Simone Haruko Smith from San Francisco on September 29, 2010:

Great entry! (It definitely came through, by the way). Cumberland sure has a fascinating history, and I would love to see the wildlife you describe. It would be great fun to kayak over to the island and either camp or stay at Greyfield Inn - siiiigh! Thanks for sharing this wonderful place with us!

mquee from Columbia, SC on September 29, 2010:

Hi Habee, I don't think there are many things in life that are more enjoyable than traveling whether here at home or to a foreign country.

This sounds like a perfect place to camp out and fish, both of which my wife and I enjoy. You gave some great descriptions and photos here. We will put this down as a future vacation spot. Thanks for sharing.

De Greek from UK on September 29, 2010:

How about a hub on where to retire for peanuts? :-))

Micky Dee on September 29, 2010:

Incredibly thorough habee! I loved the videos. The young lady in the first was delightful! This is super! I danced on your buttons!

Brian Stephens from Laroque des Alberes, France on September 29, 2010:

What a fabulous place and very well illustrated. Love the idea of horses running free as well, must be an amazing sight.

Maria Giunta from Sydney, Australia on September 29, 2010:

What a beautiful place, I love the wildlife photos. Thanks habee.

Hello, hello, from London, UK on September 29, 2010:

You lucky girl having see such a beautiful place. Thank you for describing it so well and showing us around.

carolina muscle from Charlotte, North Carolina on September 29, 2010:

Beautiful post!

images99 on September 28, 2010:

Hi habee-I love to travel and write about travel so whenever I find a chance I travel else I travel the way I am doing right now, through articles, thanks for sharing.

Pamela Lipscomb from Charlotte, North Carolina on September 28, 2010:

Thanks for sharing this simply beautiful spot with us. I am always looking for new places to visit.

prasetio30 from malang-indonesia on September 28, 2010:

I always love your travel report, habee. That's give me a new spirit to travel around the world. I'll put the Cumberland Island on my travel list. Good work, my friend. I love the pictures. Rate up.

Prasetio

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on September 28, 2010:

Thanks, drbj! My life has been pretty crazy recently. lol

drbj and sherry from south Florida on September 28, 2010:

Fascinating history of Cumberland Island and beautiful photos. Thank you, Holle. Have been missing you. Hope all is well in your world.

Holle Abee (author) from Georgia on September 28, 2010:

Thanks, Rob! It's an amazing place.

Rob from Oviedo, FL on September 28, 2010:

Great hub. You really described the place well. I loved the pictures you chose. You know, I'd never heard of Cumberland Island before.

Related Articles