******NOTE - This is a work in progress...this note will be removed once complete. Check back often for updates and the completed article.
PART 3 - The Interior and Cabinets
Ok, so we have a wooden box on wheels. If you have not read my last two hubs on how to build one, check it out here. So, what to do next.....well, you need to draw out what your camper will have on the inside. There are plenty of ideas, pictures and plans on the internet to give you some motivation. In mine, I wanted a fridge, sink and a few cabinets. With a little preplanning you'd be surprized how much you can fit in the smallest spaces.
- 1/2" x 4' x 8' Wood Sheet - Used for cabinet faces and doors
- 1/2" x ' x 8' Plywood Sheet - Used for cabinet walls and structure
- 2" x 2" Wood Strapping - Used for framing cabinets as needed
- Construction Adhesive (Comes in a caulking tube)
- Drywall/Wood Screws (I had a box of drywall screws, so that worked for me)
- Finishing nails (I used my nail gun and the appropriate 1" nails)
- Cabinet Door hardware (Hinges and Door Handles)
- Counter Top
- Piano Hinge - Allows the counter top open to and provide more storage and maintenance of the sink
- End Cap - THIS IS NEEDED to block the hot water tap from pouring the water back into the camper floor (This will make sense later, trust me!)
- Garden Hose (I used a coiled type. It makes it easy to pack)
- Drain Hose
- Hose Clamp - Used to connect the drain hose to the sink
- Chop Saw (with wood cutting blade)
- Table Saw
- Circular Saw
- Reciprocating Saw
- Router and bits
- Measuring tape
- Straight Edge
- Chalk Line
- Drill and drill bits
- Caulking gun
- Nail gun and air compressor
- Belt Sander and sandpaper (for minor fit and finish sanding, plus its nice to smooth a few edges, no one likes a sliver when your camping)
Step one - Design of the Kitchen
After your design is completed and you've ordered your wood, then you can start to cut it up and start laying it out prior to nailing it. Do your self a favor and glue and screw everything you can. It will help in the long run as the vibration of rolling down the road may cause damage. Nothing worse then getting to your location and noticing your kitchen has fallen apart on the way.
If you look carefully at my pictures above a few things stand out in the design.
- Plywood was used to build the structure and the nice wood was used for the face and the doors.
- Fridge was built in. I have used a Coleman 12 volt cooler as a fridge. It a size of a standard cooler. Plugs into a cigarette lighter in your car and keeps itself cold without ice. I have wired it up to a switch and car battery under the counter.
- A small bar sink was installed in the counter top.
- The cold tap is connected to a coiled garden hose. When you are at the camp site this will connect you the water supply and make doing the dishes much nicer.
- The hot water tap is capped off. THIS IS A MUST!!!! If the cold water is running and you accidentally turn on the hot water tap, it will back flow true the uncapped tap and flood your camper.
- The drainage hose is secured to the drain on the sink. The drain hose should be long enough to reach into the bushes.
- All hoses (supply and drainage) is accessible trough an access door below the camper.
Step two - Finishing Touches
All cabinet doors are made out of the nice wood and are cut approximately 1/2" bigger than the cabinet hole it covers. The doors also have had the edges routered to give a pleasing look.
kklowell from Lowell, Massachusetts on March 04, 2012:
Users of your design should check the laws of the states in which they plan to camp as in some states it is illegal to drain gray water onto the ground.
I am enjoying your series, please continue posting these articles.
Used Teardrop Trailers on June 17, 2011:
Thank you very much for sharing this Building your own teardrop camper - Part 3! keep posting!
catering trailers on May 08, 2011:
Awesome post on Building your own tear drop camper! I want to build one like that soon. I hope I do have these skills needed to do so.