I've been an active Search & Rescue volunteer since 2007 with the Coconino County Sheriff's SAR Team in northern Arizona.
Rock Rescue Academy Was Almost Over -- Time To Gear Up
Four years ago, I began training for our Search & Rescue team's technical rescue group in a series of class and field sessions collectively known as the Rock Rescue Academy. Between training sessions, I spent many additional hours practicing those new skills (that's me in the photo, rappelling), trying to commit them to memory both mentally and physically. And in September, all new and existing tech team members took the annual proficiency test.
For that test, all of us were required to have purchased certain pieces of equipment for ourselves, rather than use team gear. During an actual mission, there may not be enough team gear to go around, and we always need to have proper equipment for our own personal safety.
So, knowing that, yes, this is something I really wanted to do, it was time to spend some money on tech gear. And this is what I got.....
I chose the Metolius Safe Tech Waldo
Now I know there's a significant difference between a recreational climbing harness and a rescue harness. But I wish I'd known that before I took the advice of an employee at a local climbing gym and spent just under $100 for a harness from their store. Not knowing a thing about climbing, tech rescue or the associated gear at the time, I'd just walked in and said, "I need a harness for Search & Rescue" and went with what the girl sold me.
That was a mistake. I mean, I suppose it doesn't hurt to have an extra harness around, especially if I decide to take up rock climbing. But my Black Diamond Aura harness, while probably great for sport climbing, just doesn't cut it for rescue work. For one, it gets rather uncomfortable if I have to be on the rope for a long period of time, hanging around so to speak. And it's got too much length between the leg loops and the belay loop. When I hang on the harness, that extra length means that it stretches, and my gear ends up too high on my waist.
At any rate, after checking out some recommendations from teammates, I bought myself a Metolius Safe Tech Waldo Harness from a company called Rescue Response. The Waldo has thick, 1/2" foam padding around the waist and legs, so it's very comfortable. This harness also has "Safe Tech" features, including four 10kN gear loops, a 16kN haul loop and 6.6kN rear leg loop straps, with no low-strength components. And you can adjust the rise length and leg size to obtain proper fit. The small rear loops can double as hammer holsters, and a second belay loop was added to minimize the problem of "gear cluster."
I started off with the Black Diamond climbing harness shown here (yellow), but it just wasn't cut out for rescue work.
Then I switched to a Metolius rescue seat harness, which I'm using here as I ascend....
I decided on the Petzl Voltige
Sure, you can fashion a chest harness from a piece of webbing like you'll see in the photos above and below (the orange webbing), but not only is it rather uncomfortable (and it doesn't look too good) but also difficult to adjust to the proper fit. It was okay for the initial training, but our Coordinator required us to have a commercially sewn chest harness with a seat/chest connector for ongoing participation with the technical rescue team. And, having used the improvised harness for a few months, I definitely see why.
So I bought myself a Petzl Voltige Chest Harness from AHS Rescue, a company serving "the serious recreational outdoorsman and ... emergency services and those who make their living working at height."
I'm planning to use two D-rings (or Deltas links) with the chest harness, one 12mm to connect the two sides of the harness in the front, then a piece of Omni strap, cut with a hot knife to the right length, along with a 10mm Delta to attach the chest harness to my seat harness.
At the moment, though, I haven't yet had time to cut the Omni strap and haven't purchased the Deltas, so I've been connecting the seat and chest harness with one carabiner. It's a little uncomfortable when I'm standing around for a while with the two connected like that, because I can't quite stand up straight, but the tight connection does feel good when I'm on the rope, helping to keep me upright.
Here's The Voltige - Also available on Amazon
The Delta Link aka D-Ring - For attaching chest to seat
At first, I improvised a chest harness with orange webbing. But it was uncomfortable and difficult to adjust to the correct fit.
Then I got a much more comfortable Petzl Voltige, which I'm wearing here as I get ready to rappel.
Helmet - A good price for a quality helmet
We're required to wear a helmet that's CE and UIAA-certified, and the Black Diamond Half Dome fits the bill. It's also comfortable and accommodates a headlamp, with clips on either side to hold it in place. In addition to the adjustable chin strap, there's a dial at the back to crank the helmet tighter around your head.
A few of my teammates and I ordered this helmet, finding it to be a good value. And with all of the money we were spending on gear, we didn't want to spend $100 for a helmet if we could get a quality one for about half the price. (We got a discount off the usual retail price as shown below.)
I used a team helmet (shown here) until I got my own.
Then I got my own Black Diamond helmet, seen here while I'm rappeling.
Personal Descent (Rappel) Device - The Hyper Extreme Mini Rack
During training, we learned to use a personal rappel (or brake) rack, the Rescue 8, and a rescue rack. The rescue rack is similar to the personal one, but larger and stronger with additional bars for increased friction for heavy rescue loads.
I much preferred the racks to the 8, because it's very difficult--if not nearly impossible--to adjust the amount of friction with the latter. I also found it harder to stop my downward motion and tie off with the 8 while mid-face. So when it came to buying a personal descending device, I went with a Hyper Extreme Mini Rack, as shown below. The Hyper Extreme has two small, vertical hyper bars, which help with both tying off and changing the breaking action from pulling up on the rope to pulling down. Pulling up to brake is more difficult and awkward, not to mention tiring on the arm.
Gloves - By Metolius
One thing I did buy at that climbing gym that I still like and will continue to use are the Metolius Iron Hand 3/4 Finger Gloves. I'll need a different pair for winter use, but I like having my fingers free to manipulate equipment. They got dirty pretty darn fast but seem to be holding up very well to extensive use and abuse. I'm sure, though, I'll be going through numerous pairs as time goes on, so I'm going to pick up at least another one to have as a backup.
These 3/4 finger gloves allow me to easily manipulate my gear while protecting me from rope burns.
And Maybe A Pair Like This For The Winter
Locking Carabiners: so many to choose from.
Here's a good excerpt about carabiners, including the pros and cons of steel versus aluminum 'biners, and how to properly load and care for them, from Fundamentals of Search and Rescue, written by Donald C. Cooper: Carabiners.
Or "soft safeties"
We use Prusiks in a variety of ways, including for self-belays on a single rope, for tandem Prusik belays on a separate belay line, occasionally for ascending and so forth.
The rope used for a Prusik should always be of a smaller diameter than that which it's attached to. We often use 11mil. rope for main and belay lines, so our Prusiks are 8mil for rescue loads and 6 or 8mil for a single person (or personal) load. The difference in diameter between the main line and the Prusik should follow the general rule of a 60-80% ratio.
Prusiks can be made by buying the rope and tying them yourself, or you can buy them pre-sewn, which is what I did so as to avoid having the double fisherman's knots on the Prusiks.
They ship any order in the contiguous United States for a flat rate of $4.95, so several of my teammates and I placed our orders together. We also took advantage of their 10% discount for rescue personnel.
Rescue or Trauma Shears
Though we have the option of carrying a knife instead, our SAR coordinator said he recommends shears. Reason being, it's so easy to cut rope under tension, and if, say, we're suspended while doing a pick-off (rescuing someone stranded mid-face) and pull out our knife, we could end up accidentally hitting our line or belay line with the blade. Not to mention the person we're rescuing.
Other gear on my list includes ascenders like those shown here. The team has Petzl ascenders we can use if we don't have our own
Sources For Technical Rescue Gear - I can recommend....
- Rescue Direct
Offering a "Public Service Personnel Discount" to search and rescue team members, fire departments, tactical teams, high angle rescue teams and EMS squads. I called to place my order and spoke to Dale, who was very helpful.
- Rescue Response
Rescue equipment for Fire Rescue and Rope Access. The website also features training and climbing videos. A good contact there is Matt if you have any questions. (I asked for a discount by using the "request a quote" contact form, and I got one.)
- AHS Rescue
Selling technical gear in the categories water, industrial, rescue and sport.
- Inner Mountain Outfitters
Caving, climbing and rescue equipment
- Yates Gear
Selling big wall and rock and ice equipment, work and rescue gear and tactical equipment
A Technical Rescue Rigging Guide Our Team Uses - We keep one of these around for the team for quick references, and many of us own our own.
© 2009 Deb Kingsbury
Comments Or Questions About Technical Rescue Or The Gear? - Share them here.
jayjay262 on November 02, 2012:
Love the info on this site, as an old abseiler still learning new tricks thereâs a lot to learn from this page. If anyone gets time check out myrope access london site to see how we do it in the UK.
anonymous on July 14, 2012:
Anyone can say something is great. Thanks for showing us.
adityashinde on June 16, 2011:
great lens...thanks for sharing :)
anonymous on April 29, 2011:
www.cmcrescue.com is an excellent source for all of your rescue equipment needs. They can also make custom equipment to meet any special needs you may have.
Deb Kingsbury (author) from Flagstaff, Arizona on September 16, 2010:
@TonyPayne: That's a good point. I didn't think about non-techie people wondering about that. Actually, the shears are for cutting a victim's rope once we get them off of it and onto a rescue line or into a rescue litter. Many fall victims are hanging on their own ropes when we get to them. But we don't cut their rope until we have them secured, of course! :)
Tony Payne from Southampton, UK on September 16, 2010:
Great detailed lens. I can't imagine any climber wants to cut their rope by accident! Shears are a good thing.
Kiwisoutback from Massachusetts on September 18, 2009:
Great job with this lens. I'm not sure I could swing rock climbing. I've seen a lot of people do it, but I think I need both feet firmly planted in the ground. You look like you've done this quite a few times, so I trust your recommendations! Squid Angel blessed.
julieannbrady on September 02, 2009:
A very complete resource -- but the closest you will ever get me to this is perhaps the gear for the canopy tours! I did that in Costa Rica -- let me tell you!!!! That was one serious stepping outside MY comfort zone as I yodeled through the tree tops. And once back on ground, adjusted that wedgie.
Bambi Watson on August 29, 2009:
Great Info, very interesting!