Grand Canyon Hike: South Kaibab to Tonto West to Bright Angel Trail

A Long Dayhike or Perfect Overnight Trip in the National Park

I just did this 13-mile hike for the fourth time, and each time has been different. The same canyon trails change with the seasons, the weather, the company (or lack thereof), and where I happen to look and stop for a rest.

This is one of my favorite day-hikes in the Grand Canyon, which can be broken up into two days (with a backcountry camping permit), with the climb back to the south rim on the second day, when you're fresh from a good night's sleep at Indian Gardens. Or spend additional nights at the Indian Gardens campground to explore the area and relax in what I think is one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Here are some photos and information about this hike. Feel free to ask any questions you might have in the guestbook below.

**But a few words of caution first: I would not attempt this hike in a single day unless a) you've already done at least one shorter day hike below the rim, and b) you're in good cardiovascular shape. The climb out at the end of the day can be a doozy (and even a danger to your health) if you're not fit and used to desert hiking at some altitude.

A Helpful Canyon Hiking Guide

There are 15 hikes included from the South Rim and 13 hikes from the North Rim.

Want to do them all? (I do!)

This book includes descriptions and detailed maps for all of the park's developed trails as well as tips on safety, hiking with children, access, and services.

Guide Features

• Hikes for every ability
• Directions to trailheads
• Trail Finder for the best day and overnight hikes for families, moderate day hikes, strenuous day hikes, and backpacking trips for all levels
• Comprehensive trail descriptions with mile-by-mile directional cues
• Difficulty ratings, average hiking times, and best hiking seasons for each featured hike
• Information on fees, contacts, lodging and campgrounds, and more

Have You Done This or Any Other Grand Canyon Hike?

Getting to the South Kaibab Trailead at Yaki Point to Begin Your Hike

This isn't a loop, so you won't end where you begin ...

The Yaki Point Road and South Kaibab Trail parking lots are closed to private vehicles (unless you have an accessibility permit). So, you will need to ride a free Park shuttle bus to access the trailhead.

Park in Grand Canyon Village and go to any one of the nearby shuttle stops.

Take the blue route shuttle to the Visitor Center, then transfer to the orange route shuttle to get to the trailhead.

You'll end your hike at the top of the Bright Angel Trail, back in Grand Canyon Village, so you can easily walk back to your vehicle.

See the National Park Service website for more information about the Grand Canyon Shuttle Bus routes and to download a transit map.

There's also an early morning Hiker's Express Shuttle Bus, which departs from Bright Angel Lodge on the hour, with a second stop at the Backcountry Information Center, a third stop at Grand Canyon Visitor Center, and a last stop at South Kaibab Trailhead. (From December through February, this bus departs only at 8:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m.)

From here, you'll begin your hike, starting with the series of switchbacks referred to as the "drainpipe." And you'll see why. Just watch your footing. You aren't going to fall off the edge unless you really try, but you could land on your butt if you slip on loose gravel on top of a hard-packed trail. And you'll likely have an audience, as this first part of the South Kaibab trail is quite heavily used.

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I personally recommend using trekking poles to help stay upright, not to mention lessen the impact on your knees.

About three-quarters of a mile after beginning your descent on the South Kaibab Trail, you'll come to this aptly named point, which got its title from hikers who turn to the west and say, "Ooh," then turn to the east and follow that up with an "Aah." (Or vice versa)

As mentioned, the South Kaibab trail is well-maintained by the Park, but it's relatively steep in places and, being a ridge trail, is exposed to the sun the whole way down all day long. So this is an especially hot trail in the summer months, and there's no water available at all. For this reason, the South Kaibab is not the ascending trail of choice when hiking back to the rim from the river. The majority of hikers prefer to descend the South Kaibab and ascend the longer Bright Angel Trail to the west, which offers more shade and opportunities to refill your water bottles.

At 1.5 miles down from the rim on the South Kaibab Trail, you'll reach a large, flat area called Cedar Ridge, where you'll find an outhouse and good places to take a load off and rest for a bit while taking in the view. This is another popular turn-around point for a shorter day-hike.

At 3 miles from the rim, you'll reach Skeleton Point.

The junction of the South Kaibab Trail and Tonto Trail is located 4.4 miles from the rim, just before the Tipoff, where the South Kaibab Trail leaves the Tonto Plateau for the descent to the Colorado River. Here you'll find a solar-powered outhouse for your convenience before you turn to the west.

About a quarter-mile beyond this junction (on the South Kaibab Trail), there's an emergency phone on the east side of the trail.

If you're doing this 13-mile dayhike, you're going to turn to the west on the Tonto Trail. Except for a couple of glimpses, you won't see the Colorado River on this hike.

The 4.6-mile section of the Tonto Trail between the South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails is the most heavily traveled portion of this east-west trail and the easiest to follow, due to the number of people who tread on it. Camping along the Tonto Trail is allowed by permit only and only at certain use areas, but there is little water available. Your best bet is Pipe Creek but check with the backcountry office to see if it's running. And always filter water from backcountry sources that don't come from potable water spigots, such as those on the Bright Angel Trail.

I recommend wearing long pants -- such as convertible pants, so you can remove the bottom portions later -- while hiking on the Tonto. While this particular section isn't as overgrown as other parts of the Tonto Trail, you can get quite scraped up by the brush if you wear shorts.

Also, heat is extreme on the exposed Tonto Trail during the late spring to early fall, so if you really want to hike across parts of the Tonto Platform during that time of year, hike early or hike late and carry a LOT of water -- more than you think you'll need.

About two miles from the junction of the South Kaibab Trail and the Tonto Trail, you'll come to Pipe Canyon and little Pipe Creek. A short detour from the Tonto Trail will bring you to this nice spot for a rest and snack or lunch break. A short distance further, you come to the pour-off.

Offering bunkhouses and cabins, Phantom Ranch is the only lodging below the rim of Grand Canyon. There is also a canteen where meals, beverages, and sundries are available. No backcountry permit is required, but reservations must be made -- usually far in advance -- through Xanterra. Reservations are accepted up to 13 months in advance.

After crossing the Colorado River via suspension bridge and half a mile before reaching Phantom Ranch, you'll come to Bright Angel Campground. Unlike Phantom Ranch, which is operated by a concessionaire, Bright Angel Campground is run by the Park Service, so a backcountry permit is required to stay here.

Phantom Ranch is located 10 miles from the Bright Angel Trailhead and 7 miles from the So. Kaibab Trailhead. Guests can access Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground on foot, by mule or by boat.

Nine miles from the start of your hike, you'll reach the end of the Tonto Trail section and the oasis in the desert, called Indian Gardens. Here, you'll find shade ramadas, potable water year-round, a ranger station, mule corrals, and a campground. You can also dip your feet and cool off in Garden Creek.

If you can get a permit to camp at Indian Gardens, this is a great way to break this hike up into two days (or more). From Indian Gardens, you can make the 3-mile, round-trip, easy hike out to Plateau Point, where you can look down another 1,000 feet to the Colorado River.

From Indian Gardens, you have 4.6 miles and nearly 3,000 feet of elevation gain on the Bright Angel Trail to reach the South Rim. There are two rest houses at 3 miles and 1.5 miles from the rim, and potable water available seasonally (from May thru September) at each. Check with the Grand Canyon backcountry office to be sure if the water is on or off. There are also outhouses located at these points.

Learn About and Identify Grand Canyon Flora, Fauna, and Geology From the Rim or as You Hike

Take your time and stop to smell the cactus flowers (and maybe a little eau de mule) as you hike. I like to carry a guide and match the images with what I'm actually looking at -- a self-guided tour that gives me all kinds of goodies with which to entertain and educate my friends on future hikes.

One reviewer writes, "Handy easy-to-use guide to birds, flowers, cacti, wildflowers, reptiles, mammals, geology of the grand canyon. Nothing like it anywhere."

More Information About Hiking in Grand Canyon

Some links I like....

National Park Service -- Grand Canyon National Park Official Website

Backcountry Hiking in Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon National Park Permit Request Form (PDF): For camping below the rim

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

Comments or Questions About This or Other Grand Canyon Hikes? Share them here....

Deb Kingsbury (author) from Flagstaff, Arizona on November 22, 2018:

Great job! This hike doesn't go all the way to the river (to the bridge), so it's not quite as long as what you did. This hike goes down South Kaibab, across the Tonto (near the tip-off) and then up Bright Angel Trail. Or you could go the other direction, of course. Going to the river and back in a day, though, is quite a trek, even without a "dad bod" (or was that "bad bod?" :-) )

Giovanni Frigo on November 21, 2018:

I did it yesterday, 11/20/2018. Started at 7:15 am and arrived at 2:15 pm so it took me 7 hours. I was at the bottom for lunch near Silver bridge at 9:30 am. The last hour up was hard. I think poles are essential in both directions. I had back surgery two years ago and I did it in 7 hours despite my dad bod. So I think anybody with some degree of physical and mental strength can do it in under 8 hours ish. Enjoy!

TravelTourist on January 14, 2014:

Nice photos and lens, I made the mistake of not leaving enough time to hike the canyon when I visited last time and am definitely going back to hike and camp in it one day.

anonymous on January 02, 2013:

Oh wow! What a great hike and some brilliant photos Deb. One day, maybe one day......

Mamaboo LM on June 30, 2012:

Thanks so much for your lens. I think perhaps the biggest mistake people make is to not go on trails and really explore the grand canyon and it's hiking trails. There's so much for beauty (as your lens has brought out) that can be seen, if you just walk it! Be Blessed

Michey LM on April 04, 2012:

Come back to send Angel dust your way, it really is my type of lens.

BageAKumar on May 17, 2011:

Great hiking page.Nice lens with so much beautiful pictures.Thanks.

Michey LM on May 03, 2011:

You have beautiful pictures,and an informative lens. I enjoy immensely your lens!

Regards Michey

Renaissance Woman from Colorado on April 28, 2011:

Always appreciate the very thorough information and tips. Excellent resource. The photos really take me there. I'm sprinkling some stardust on this trail. **blessed** Thank you!

Ruth Coffee from Zionsville, Indiana on April 28, 2011:

Absolutely LOVED your photographs, sounds like a fabulous hike.

Faye Rutledge on April 28, 2011:

Thanks for the wonderful Grand Canyon hike! I love hiking through your lenses! :)

Nancy Tate Hellams from Pendleton, SC on April 28, 2011:

Wonderful photos and description of a beautiful place. Well done. I have only been to the Grand Canyon one time but would like to return one day.

sheriangell on April 28, 2011:

This looks like a wonderful experience. I loved the photos and how you linked over to the images of all those wildflowers. I've been to the Grand Canyon, but unfortunately didn't hike while there, I would love to do that one day.

luvmyludwig lm on April 28, 2011:

beautiful pics of the Grand Canyon, looks like a great place to hike.

MargoPArrowsmith on April 28, 2011:

I have an original photo on my wall with my great grandmother and a group of Masons and wives on burros with a guide and a sign that says 1914. They were going to the base of the Grand Canyon. They all, including the women, have three piece suits and Windsor knotted ties. My, how things have changed!