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Making up Blinds
One of the first criteria for deciding on which style of blind to choose is the effect it will have when lowered and raised.
When lowered, roller, roman, tie-up, and hooked blinds present a flat surface of the fabric. They also expose a greater window area when raised than ruched blinds.
Austrian and festoon blinds, on the other hand, are more shapely and pronounced at full length, dominating the window and its surrounding area. When raised, they remain ruched and highly decorative.
Regardless of which blind you are making, it is important to take accurate, relevant measurements of the window area before starting.
Measuring Window Area
If the blind is to fit inside the recess, measure from the fixing position to the window sill for the drop required.
The finished width should be 3 cm less than the width of the recess. For a face-fixed blind, measure from the top of the hanging system to 5 cm below the window sill for the drop.
The finished width should be 5 cm wider than the window at each side to prevent light from spilling in around the sides of the blind.
Tools and Equipment
To construct roller, roman, simple, or ruched blinds, you will need the basic sewing kit. Fix fabric to poles or boards using a staple gun and staples, or small tacks and a Cross-Peen hammer.
Cut dowelling, battens, and rollers with a panel saw. use a cross-peen hammer the fix the cap and round pin into place at the cut end of a roller.
Hanging systems are mounted to a window frame with screws, or to a wall using a tape measure, spirit level, bradawl, electric drill and drill bits, a screwdriver, metal detector and wallpalugs.
Roller Blinds and Accessories
Assembling roller blinds is easy when using a kit. The kits are available with every component. Apply stiffener to untreated fabric, following the manufacturer's instructions.
This type of blind is pulled into pleats with cords tied onto rings sewn vertically to the back. Horizontal lengths of dwelling sewn into the blind, give clear folds in the pleats. Tie the pull-up cords to a wall cleat.
The top edge of a tie blind is best held in place with the velcro stapled onto a heading board. Suspend a simple hooked blind from a length of dowelling positioned between a pair of cup hooks.
Austrian or festoon tape is attached in vertical rows. Both types are available with rings and cords. Hang from a ruched blind track or a heading board. Tie the cords to a wall cleat.
The spring mechanism that causes a roller to raise and lower the fabric is what distinguishes this type of blind from others.
At its full length, the blind should cover the window while allowing some daylight into the room - providing the fabric is not too thick.
When the roller is fixed above the window and the blind is rolled up, the entire window will be in view. You can embellish a roller blind with a decorative edging along the bottom.
Simple Roller Blind
Choose from a range of roller-blind fabrics, or apply stiffener to thin fabric. Brackets can be fixed to a window frame or to a wall. Purchase a roller that is very long and you can cut it down to size.
When mounting the brackets, align them horizontally with the window. Cut the roller to the distance between the fixed brackets, which is less than 3 cm, to allow space for the end cap.
Fit the end cap and hammer the pin home, following the manufacturers instructions. Measure up for the blind, checking that the roller hangs correctly in the brackets.
Add 30 cm to the length to allow for the roller to be covered with fabric when the blind is down, and for the hemmed channel for the batten at the lower edge.
1. Fixing Bracket If mounting the hanging system within a window recess, allow a space of 2 cm from the brackets to the top of the recess. Fix the brackets for the square pin to the left of the window, and the bracket for the round pin to the right. In a wooden frame, mark the positions for the screws, then bradawl the holes before driving home the screws. On a wall, use a metal detector to confirm that there are no electrical wires. Mark, bradawl, drill holes and insert a wallplug in each hole.
2. Marking Fabric Measure up the blind and mark the dimensions. Cut out the fabric, making sure that the corners are at perfect right angles so that the blind will hang and roll correctly. Join widths by overlapping edges by 1 cm, and sewing close to the raw edges (take such measurements into account when calculating the fabric).
3. Sewing Channel Zigzag stitch the lower edge. Place the batten on the wrong side of the fabric. Fold the lower edge over it. Mark the turning. Remove the batten. Press, tack, and sew near the stitching to form a channel. Leave sides open.
4. Taping Roller Lay the fabric flat, right side up. Mark the place for the roller. Centre it along the top edge of the fabric. Align the roller with the mark. Tape the top of the fabric along its length, or fix using double-sided tape, if supplied.
5. Attaching Fabric Work a half-roll of fabric onto the roller, ensuring that the fabric is aligned. Using small upholstery tacks or staples, attach it to the roller, following the manufacturers instructions.
6. Fixing Cord Cut battens 6 mm shorter than blind width. Centre it in the channel. Secure the cord in the cord holder, and attach this to the centre of the batten on the wrong side of the fabric.
7. Attaching Weight Thread the cord weight and end fitting on the cord, and knot to secure. Wind the fabric onto the roller. Fit the roller into the brackets. Test the operation of the blind, altering the amount of wound around the roller in order to obtain a perfect drop. If necessary, adjust the tension following the manufacturers instructions.
The Finished Blind
This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.
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