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How to Install Drywall

Sheetrock Installation



The invention of drywall impacted building construction as the internet has on social networking. The internet has replaced expensive entertainment, drywall replaced expensive gypsum walls. Drywall is cheaper than plaster because it can be installed quickly and requires less skilled labour.


Even so, professionals are continually devising new ways to put up wall boards more quickly and easily.

  • Place board horizontally, or laid down, has 20% fewer joints than vertical or stood up, drywall a finished assembly of studs and laid-down boards are more resistant to cracking, easier to work with and less noticeable than vertical seams.


  • Use the long boards to work with 12-14 feet boards make for strong and better walls, which can be difficult to carry into a room up a stairway supplier will deliver them and place them through a second-story window with a cherry picker-type of lift.


12 ft boards have definite advantages to a 10 x 12 room finished laid down, 12 -ft boards have no vertical seams except at the corners and only need 264 linear ft of tape, and the same room finished with 8-ft boards stood up has eight non-tapered joints (ones not able to take advantage of the factory tapering along the factory-cut sides of drywall sheets) and needs 308 linear feet of tape and non-tapered edges show a slight bulge of a joint compound when finished, unlike tapered joints flush with the surrounding board.


The projected savings of horizontal installation with 12- or 14-ft boards are 15 -24 percent of finishing costs.


  • Use screws, not nails screws hold better, draw tighter, are easy to use on ceilings, and result in lower finishing costs than do nails screws have greater holding power with screws 12 inches apart; nails should be 7 inches apart on walls screws can be 16 inches apart; nails should be 8 inches apart, the best way to install screws is with a screw gun, but a hand drill with an $8 screwdriver attachment makes a good substitute. In either new work or an old wall, if a screw or nail pops ( that is, its head works loose to protrude into the room), the best way to fix it is to drive it in firmly. Drive it far enough to recess the drywall if you think it is not firmly engaged into the stud behind, drive in another screw or nail an inch away that does get a solid grip. If the first nail or screw is loose, remove it, then spread the compound over the recess.


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  • At a ceiling floating angle is not recommended to use screws or nails at the intersection of walls and ceilings. Instead, use the top edge of the wallboard to support the board. This system of floating angles saves time and also makes a joint that can flex with a slight movement of the building, which is particularly important in older houses that may settle slightly. Generally, using floating angles on walls saves about 75 cents on each 4 x 8 sheet.


Attach the drywall to the ceiling first. We recommend the double nail technique; place screws in pairs 2 inches apart to prevent screws from loosening and allow you to put the first screw about 16 inches away from the wall. If you put up screws singly, the first one should be 12 inches from the wall.


Install drywall on the walls so that the edges abut tightly against the board overhead, place screws 8 inches down from the ceiling for single screws.


  • Drywall clips save the cost of inside corner studs or additional framing at partition intersections older houses with lath and plaster, there was only one inside corner stud -and perhaps a thin board to catch the lathe on one wall clips replace this board using clips makes a more crack-resistant joint.


  • Using fibreglass self-adhesive type costs more than paper tape but saves labour, paper tape needs a bedding coat to adhere to the wall as the first step. Furthermore, fibreglass tape is simple. An unskilled worker or amateur can apply it, working ahead of professionals spreading on the compound.

In addition, using just two coats of joint compound dura-bond consistency with fibreglass tape creates a stronger joint than using three coats of an ordinary joint compound with paper tape. The savings in labour cost is about 6 to 12 percent.


  • In corners, caulk, don't tape. Taping tight-fitting wall corners and wall-ceiling joints are troublesome and time-consuming. Instead, filling the joints with acrylic latex caulking, and tape joint compound require two or three coats, with drying time between each coat. Caulking is completed in a single swift operation-damp a sponge to smooth the caulk and speed up work further is much easier if you are doing the work yourself.

The appearance will be better if taped and plastered, but where tapered edges are cut off, or where appearance is not mandatory in garages, closets and basements caulking is a low-cost and presentable technique. Moreover, with caulk, the joints expand and contract slightly. The savings from using caulk instead of tape and compound at corners is about 15 percent of the finishing cost of an entire room.

Horizontal Sheetrock Application

Horizontal Sheetrock Application

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