Maleficent Movie Makeup, Eyes and Nails

Author:
Kirsti A. Dyer
Updated date:
Dec 2, 2014

Make Yourself up Like Angelina Jolie's Maleficent

Angelina Jolie's take on Maleficent involved many hours of makeup to get her to achieve this new iconic look for this misunderstood fairy queen.

From the prosthetic cheekbones, inspired by Lady Gaga, and her creepy contact lenses, hand painted by contact lens artist Cristina Patterson, down to her uniquely colored nails, inspired by Christian Louboutin, Angelina Jolie worked with her own personal stylist Toni G and a design team to create a character that is beautiful and terrifying at the same time.

I've been inspired by this new version of Maleficent to create my own version of the costume to wear at Disneyland Halloween. After looking at how to make her horns and the various different views of her costumes, I have also figured out the details of Maleficent's unique makeup and under mani nails.

Read on to find out more about recreating this new look for Angelina's Maleficent.

Angelina Jolie's Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent's Face - The Look of Evil or Beauty?

Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Poll on Maleficent's Look

Maleficent Lipglass on Amazon

Angelina Jolie's stylist, Toni G., estimated they used three tubes of this special color of MAC’s Pro Longwear Lipglass during the filming of the movie.

Angelina Jolie's Maleficent Makeup

There are several different aspects of the makeup used to create this unique fairy queen look.

Makeup
Eyes
Lipstick
Nails
Prosthetic Cheekbones
Pointed Molars

Visit The Costume Detective

The Costume Detective - DIY Costume Ideas
A website for finding the Best DIY Costumes, Crafts and Halloween Fun with information on DIY costumes and crafts previously prominently featured as part of the Best of Halloween and Make Your Own Halloween Costumes on Squidoo.

Maleficent - Casting a Spell

Angelina Jolie's Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Recreating Maleficent's Face Makeup

The makeup team for Maleficent wanted her to be beautiful and terrifying at the same time, but not too creature-like.

Instead of going with the traditional green skin seen in the cartoon version (and popularized more recently by Elphaba in "Wicked") they opted for normal to white skin, enhanced green contact lenses and bright red lipstick.

In the stylized promotional photo's and posters done by Mert and Markus Angelina's skin is so pale it is white.

Throughout most of the movie her skin is a normal to pale color. The only time she even hints at being green in this file is during the Christening scene when she takes on a green hue from the green flames as she casts the curse.

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Angelina's make up artist, Toni G use a MAC Select Cover Concealer applied with a wet sponge in a color that was lighter than Angelina's natural skin tone to get that pale effect.

The make up team did not use blush, but did use contouring or a sculpting powder (MAC Sculpting Powder) to help accentuate her prosthetic enhanced cheekbones and according to Moviefone News then use the normal beauty principle of highlighting "the upside down triangle under the eyes to the outside part of the cheeks to the bottom of the nose."

Maleficent's Face from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent Makeup - Video Tutorials

There are a lot of amazing video tutorials showing how to get the look of Disney's favorite evil fairy. Here are just a few of the tutorials for getting that Angelia Jolie-inspired evil fairy look.

MAC Face Makeup on Amazon

MAC Disney Maleficent Collection

MAC's limited color edition Maleficent Collection was developed for Disney with the help of Toni G Angelina Jolie's personal makeup artist Toni G.

This special collection comes with Maleficent's fairy wings on the packaging and is guaranteed "to delight the most demanding of dark sorceresses." The collection consists of:

Eye shadow kit
Eye liner
Eye brows
Eye lashes
Lipglass
Lip pencil
Lipstick
Beauty powder
Prime highlighter
Sculpting powder
Nail Lacquer

With the collection (or at least the colors of the collection once the limited-edition runs out) you can recreate this beautiful and terrifying new iconic look for yourself.

MAC Sculpting Powder in Sculpt available on Amazon

Recreating the Maleficent Look with the MAC Line

To recreate the look from the MAC Collection they recommend using the following MAC products:

Skin
The pale skin was created using a primer followed by a concealer, foundation (lighter than her normal skin color) and powder. Blush, contouring and highlighting was provided by the MAC Sculpt Sculpting Powder.
Concealer - Mineralized Concealer
Foundation - SPF 15 Matchmaster Foundation
Powder - Natural Beauty Powder
Blush, Contour and Highlighting - Sculpt Sculpting Powder
Eyebrows
The arched eyebrows were shaped using an eyebrow tool and enhanced with eye shadow.
Eyebrow Tool - Fling Eye Brows
Eye shadow - Coquette Eye Shadow
Eyes
The eyelids were shadowed and highlighted using the eye shadow kit. On the brow a vanilla pigment and the goldmine color were used as highlights. A vex (nude) color was used over the eyelid and in the crease area longwear paint pot in groundwork (brown) along with the ground brown and carbon eye shadows.
Eyeshadow - Maleficent Eye Shadow x 4
Brow Highlight - Vanilla pigment, Eye Shadow (Goldmine)
Eyelid - Vex Eye Shadow
Crease - Groundwork Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Eye Shadow (Ground Brown and Carbon)
Eye liner was applied and the lower lids were enhanced using the carbon eye shadow, while Fascinating Eye Kohl was applied to the waterline.
Liner - Rapidblack Penultimate Eye Liner, Eye Shadow (Carbon on lower), Fascinating Eye Kohl (waterline)
Eyelashes
The eyelashes were enhanced using false eyelashes, then further volumized and defined with an intensely black carbon pigment mascara.
Mascara - Extended Play Gigablack Lash
Lashes - MAC Disney 30 Lashes
Lips
The deep red lip look was created using a primer followed by a pencil, lipstick and lipgloss (lipglass):
Pencil - Kiss me Quick Lip Pencil
Lipstick - True Love's Kiss Lipstick
Gloss - Anthurium Pro Longwear Lipglass

Maleficent's Eyes

Angelina Jolie's Eyes as Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent Eye Makeup from MAC on Amazon

The four eye colors used to create Angelina's eye look are from MAC:

Ground Brown Dirty deep brown - Matte
Concrete Muted taupe brown -Satin
Carbon Intense black - Matte
Goldmine Intense gold with shimmer - Shimmer

Details on how the colors are applied are in the section above this one.

Maleficent Eye Brow Pencil on Amazon

Maleficent's Goat-Inspired Contact Lenses

Angelina Jolie’s with Goat-inspired Contact Lenses from Disney’s Maleficent

Goat by Rusty Clark and Labradorite by Gregory Phillips

Eyes Inspired by Goats and a Rock (Labradorite)

Angelina's makeup/special effects team on Maleficent—special-effects makeup artist Rick Baker, her own personal makeup artist Toni G and contact lens artist Cristina Patterson—worked to create the unique animal and iridescent (technically labradorescence) for the contact lenses worn in the film.

The team looked at goats to help create the creepy, sinister look for the evil fairy. With their have horizontal, slit-shaped, rectangular pupils (seen to the right) and very pale iris (yellow brown or blue), looking at a goat can be a bit alarming and unsettling, most likely the effect they were trying to achieve with Maleficent (at least in her evil stage). There are perhaps hints of a horizontal pupil in the movie stills above, but most of the alarming results seem to be coming from the light coloring of the irises of the eyes.

According to Fashionista, Toni G was inspired by the metallic colors of the labradorite stone (seen to the right) and the iridescent play of colors (technically labradorescence) seen when holding the stone. (It looks a lot like an oil spill). The labradorite colors found their way into the makeup shadows, the staff and also into the contact lenses.

Angelina's contact lenses were hand painted by contact lens artist Cristina Patterson, bringing in colors from labradorite. She worked with the colors already in Angelina's eyes, but incorporated colors from the laboradorite.

According to a Wired Interview to make these menacing contacts Patterson incorporated "at least four blues, three greens, two oranges, and one pink" when painting the lenses.

Light green-yellow contacts are likely to become a Halloween and cosplay trend, but I am not sure about the (horizontal) goat eye.

Goat Eye by Rusty Clark. Used under a Creative Commons License.

Labradorite Mineral by Gregory Phillips. Used under a GNU Free Documentation License.

Maleficent's Different Lip Looks

Maleficent Lips in different colors from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Recreating Maleficent's Smile

If you look at the lipstick you notice it is a blueish-red lipstick, without a hit of orange or pink. The color they chose to use was MAC’s Pro Longwear Lipglass in Anthurium.

Angelina's personal stylist, Toni G., estimated they used three tubes of the Anthurium color during the entire filming of the movie to keep the dark fairy's lips a deep shade of red.

The red lipstick makes her white teeth stand out even more.

In addition to her blood red lipstick, perhaps to make the character a bit more like a creature they applied tooth veneers to create sharp, pointed bicuspid molars.

(You can see these pointed teeth when she smiles in the photo near the bottom of this page).

Note: As part of the MAC Maleficent collection created for the movie, a lipstick with the blue undertones, called "True Love's Kiss." This lipstick puts to shame the red, red rose. To recreate the look according to their directions the lipstick is applied first, then the lipglass.

Maleficent Lip from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

MAC's Lip Makeup on Amazon

MAC Anthurium Lipglass on eBay

The official lip color of Maleficent's deep red lips.

True Love's Kiss MAC Lipstick on eBay

The deep red lipstick inspired by the film from MAC. Available for a limited time.

Maleficent's Different Nail Looks

Maleficent's Nails from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Poll on Maleficent's Nails

Recreating Maleficent Nail Look

Maleficent's Nails look to have been inspired by Adele's Christian Louboutin* two color (upper and underneath) manicure that she sported at the 2012 Grammys.

While Adele's look was silver glittery polish on top and bright red underneath, Angelina Jolie has a pearlescent bone colored top with bright red underneath.

Maleficent's two-colored nails are revealed during Aurora's Christening, the moment that she goes over to the dark side.

Recreating this unique two color nail look is fairly simple:

1. Using artificial nails, place an curved sticker midway on the bottom of the nail, where you want the underside polish to stop. Repeat 9 more times. (See the Italian video below)
2. Paint the underside of the nail first with the lighter color (white or bone). Let it dry. Repeat 9 more times.
3. Paint the underside of the nail again with the red (or whatever other color you might want to see). Let it dry. Repeat 9 times.
4. Glue the nails in place. Shape nails into points using clippers and nail file. Repeat 9 more times.
5. Paint the top of the nails with the bone color (MAC's Uninvited). Add a top coat to finish. Repeat 9 more times.

Three MAC nail lacquers were created for the movie by Angelina's make up artist Toni G, Nocturnelle, Flaming Rose and Uninvited, which are available as limited editions.

*The traditional Louboutin look is based on the iconic shoes with black on top and red underneath.

Maleficent's Nails from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

The Flip-Side Mani

Blinging out the underside of one's nails is one of the new nails trends, perhaps inspired by Maleficent's nails.

Flip-Side Manis, Louboutin Red: 5 Trends for Nails | ABC News
Flip-Side Manis Nails are an accessory now in the same way as jewelry, but a more affordable one

Angelina's Nails Go Black for the Premieres

In looking through the movie stills of Angelina's hands, I wasn't able to find any that had her nails painted black on the underside which was reported in some of the reviews of the makeup for the movie.

It does look like the Nocturnelle lacquer (black) is finding it's way to some of the Maleficent Premieres.

At both the Hollywood and in China Angelina can be seen wearing a black-on-black manicure (black top with black underneath) in place of the red (Flaming Rose) seen in the movie.

This is a variation on the Louboutin Nail (named after the iconic red-soled shoes) or as USA today is calling it an Under Mani.

I think this is a new (or reinvented) manicure look is going to catch on and be very popular, both with the red and the under color (mani) as well as others.

More about Angelina's Black Under Mani Nails

Angelina Jolie Dark Nail Polish | Style Bistro
Angelina Jolie teamed black nail polish with a goth-glam dress for a totally edgy look.
There's something strange about Angelina's manicure' | Entertain This!
She nailed one tricky on-trend detail.

Maleficent Nail Design - Video Tutorial

Maleficent Movie Nails - Video Tutorials

Recreate Maleficent's two color nails from the movie with bone on top and red underneath.

MAC Nail Lacquer for Maleficent on Amazon

The three colors of nail lacquer used to create the nails for the movie.

Artificial Nails on Amazon

Nail Polish on Amazon

Recreate the nail look for less using e.l.f. and Essie brands.

Maleficent's Prosthetic Cheeks and Pointed Molars

Maleficent's cheekbones were inspired by Lady Gaga's facial bones from the "Born this Way" video.

Initially Angelina wanted to try to create an effect that was a bit like an animal her own facial bones protruding from her forehead, but the special effects makeup artist Arjen Tuiten and her personal makeup artist Toni G eventually came up with the iconic look that you see now.

In addition to her kudu/antelope/goat like horns, she also wore prosthetic on her cheeks, a bit on her nose and her pointed ears. According to makeup effects designer Rick Baker the prosthetic pieces were less than a quarter of an inch at their thickest parts, so they just enhanced or defined her normal features.

The easiest way to create prosthetic facial bones is to create a clay mold and then build up liquid latex over it, layer upon layer leaving the latex to dry completely in between. Or you can just stick to facial contouring using makeup.

If you look at the image to the left you can see that she has sharp, pointed bicuspid molars. Most of the tooth veneers now are to recreate vampire fangs, not bicuspid molars. Perhaps some will be released in time for Halloween.

Maleficent's Prosthetic Cheekbones and Pointed Molars from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.