I've been playing Magic: The Gathering for some time, and today I want to share my tricks.
In the previous article we explored the division into categories to be used as a yardstick to understand the best cards on which to make our Pick, if you have not yet read it you can find it here.
In today's article instead we are going to explore all the other knowledge that will allow us to improve the way we play Limited.
How many colors to play?
The recommended number of colors, especially for new players, is no higher than 2. While for more experienced players is no higher than 3 (2 primary and one secondary).
Of course, there are exceptions to this rule in case we're drafting an expansion that can provide adequate support for lands that can produce different colored mana.
In some cases there are expansions that are based on playing 3 colors together and therefore this can temporarily become the standard.
The values indicated are precautionary as playing too many colors could lead to greater difficulties in the construction of the deck to balance the lands or in its gameplay. This happens when there are too many lands that come into play tapped on the total or if we draw those of the wrong colors.
Another risk of playing too many colors is that the strategy of the deck is too diluted and poorly linear and therefore it is better to focus on a couple of colors that share a strategy for greater efficiency.
If we have a noteworthy pool we can add secondary colors, this operation is called splash a color.
When performing this activity, you only use cards that require a single colored mana of specific mana (i.e. 2G, 3R, 4B, 5U, etc.) while cards with specific double colors are reserved only for the main colors (i.e. WW, 1GG, 2RR, etc.). This tends to facilitate the task of the lands.
How many Lands to play? And Creature? And others?
A rule of dumb is to always play 17-18 lands and it turns out to be a valid option in most cases, personally I play between 16 and 18 cards depending on the average costs of cards in my deck, 16 if I have a particular fast and aggressive deck and 18 for a deck that tends to play Control. 17 is perfect for everyone.
One of the most frequent mistakes I see from beginners (but which sometimes affects even more experienced players) is to bring the deck to a final number of cards higher than 40.
The problem with doing this is diluting the cards in the deck and making it harder to find the best cards if they are lost among many others of low power.
By removing the 17 lands from the total of 40 we arrive at a value of 23 other cards.
Creatures are essential to winning and therefore most of the available slots must be aimed at them, again 17-18 may be the right number.
The last 5-6 slots are for planeswalkers, removals, etc.
Building the Mana Curve
Building the Mana Curve means making sure that we have at least one play available for every single turn.
In a resource game like Magic: The Gathering it becomes an extremely important factor to win by exploiting the best resources in every single round.
That is, we must be able to play cards consistently turn after turn until we reach an advantage situation.
To find out which cards you can play in each turn, the Converted Mana Cost is often used (obtained by adding all the mana symbols in the top right of a card, ie "G" equals CMC "1", while "1GG" or "2R "is equivalent to CMC " 3 ", etc.).
The cards at converted mana cost 1 are not very impactful (in the Limited format) so we can choose to play a few or leave room to play a tapped land so as not to block us in subsequent turns.
From converted mana cost 2 up to cost 5-6 (or at most the converted mana cost we have available) you need to have as much consistency as possible. The largest number of cards in our deck must fall within the cost ranges 2 to 4.
How to choose the right creatures for each slot?
A common problem for new players trying to draft for the first time is being able to choose the best creatures for each casting cost. What requirements must a card that costs 3 have to be considered playable? How can I tell if a card is a bomb or is barely playable if I'm playing for the first time?
For this purpose I have created a table with reference values to understand the correspondence between the converted mana cost and the desired power and toughness values.
Creatures above this threshold tend to end up in the higher categories while those below end up being fillers for reaching the minimum number of 40 cards per deck.
Furthermore, it can be a way to be able to evaluate in a limited perspective the new cards that are spoiled from time to time before being able to play them at the prerelease.
|Converted Mana Cost (CMC)||Median P/T ratio|
1/2 or 1/1 + Ability
2/2 or 2/1 + Ability
2/3 or 3/2 or 2/2 + Ability
3/3 or 3/2 + Ability or 2/4 + Ability
3/4 or 3/3 + Ability
4/4 or 3/4 + Ability
Analyze the cards in the set before the draft
This activity is done by many more experienced players looking for information that can help them to better evaluate their options and improve their final win rate.
For example, if they see that many removals deal 3 damage to creatures at most, then all those with toughness of 4 or higher can be favored as they can survive more easily.
Likewise, they can see which colors are best equipped to play fast or which colors work best together or are related to related game mechanics.
All this information helps them make their choices during a draft and helps them win more consistently.
For example, many consider more the interactions and strength levels of common and uncommon cards rather than those of rare or mythic ones because statistically they are the ones that make up more Limited decks.
Recognize the signals
This is one of the activities that pro players often do, that is to understand if there are colors that are not of interest to nearby players during the draft.
This activity allows them to understand if it is worthwhile to choose those colors for their deck and therefore rely on less competition to get the best cards of those colors.
For example, if the player on the right always hands you many white cards (and especially if they are of a high level) he could mean that the color could be available to you.
Conversely, if you are thinking of making a black deck and no black cards come from the neighbors it could mean that they have chosen black as their color and therefore all of you compete for the same resources.
In these cases it might be interesting to evaluate the color change if we are still at the beginning. Better to lose a few picks and not the whole draft.
Rare Drafting and Hate Drafting
In some cases it happens that some players are tempted to Draft all the rare cards or all the powerful cards they see regardless of the colors they intend to play.
Rare Drafting is when you are looking for good value cards to resell them while Hate Drafting is taking powerful cards with the purpose of not playing them and taking them away from neighbors.
This is a common behavior but very often leads to missing good opportunities to structure your deck and you end up with a weakened deck.
Maybe you have taken something good but it will most likely lead to you losing the tournament or having to play with a deck that is not too fun to play and ruining the playing experience.
We have come to the conclusion of this article which was very thorough and technical and could be difficult to understand for someone novice but which can be reread several times to be better understood by interspersing game sessions.
I hope this information is useful for you to improve your Draft skills, let me know in the comments what you think!
© 2020 Christian Allasia