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How To Sew Godets In Dress Clothes | Sewing Seam Insertions In Skirts, Dresses, Trousers

Stitching and Inserting Godets In Clothes

How to insert and sew godets in clothes. Godets are seam insertions that have triangular shaped panels which are added to the hems seams and this creates a flaring effect in clothes. The shape of the cutting of godets and the insertions depends on how you want the design to look. You can add piping to the godets seams or use a contrast color to make a decorative finish.

You can use any fabric to sew godets. Use fabric that you know can drape, soft clothes, medium-weight fabric, wool blends or normal wool will do. You can insert godets into skirts, trousers, dresses or sleeves seam hems to add flare or flounce style to them. Godets are usually sewn into the hems part of garments.

It is the duty of a dressmaker to make sure that godets are inserted into the hems of clothes in the correct way. The main functions of godets in clothes are for decoration and to add flare.

Godets Inset in Clothing

Godets can be inserting into the seam or slit cut of clothing. This kind of inset result in the fullness of the garment. The shape of any godet fashion will look like a conical shape that is pointed at the top. To get a wider effect, you can cut off the point to get the same shape and width.

How To Cut Godets

You can draw on a stiff paper, a circle. Make sure that the radius is the same like the length of the godet that you require.You should follow the instruction on the pattern that you are using to draw from the circle center, a line to the circumference, still making sure that the line is at the center, draw a conical shape. You should see the apex of the godet, which is the center point, and the required width is the arc of the circle.

Types of Godets Design Shapes In Clothes

Depending on the effect the dressmaker wants to achieve, godet has different shapes according to how it is cut and inserted or sewn into seams of clothes hems. The types of godets designs are:

Full Godets

Full godets can be cut in semi-circle in a full 180 degree shape. Cut through the center with the straight lengthwise grain from the hem's area. Both seams should be in the crosswise grain.

Medium Full Godets

Medium full godets can be cut in a quarter circle n a 90 degree shape. You cut the godets from the center to the hem through the lengthwise grain and cut the seams through the bias of the fabric.

Soft Fall Godets

You can make a soft fall godets by cutting the center of the fabric in a 90 degree shape on the fabric's bias in such a way that the seam line of one side is on lengthwise grain and the other on the crosswise grain.


How To Insert Godets Into Seams

The techniques used in inserting godets into clothes depends on the godet design you require. This is one of the basic method used by dressmakers to sew godets:

  • You will have to prepare the fabric that you want to use
  • Cut and sew the seams at the hem where you want the godet to start
  • Press the seams open
  • Use the pattern instructions you bought to learn how you will insert the godets
  • To the open end of the seam line, insert and sew one side of the godet
  • Be sure that the end of where you stitch the upper seam line are met by the godets seam line.
  • Secure the threads by fastening it off
  • Insert and stitch the second side of the godets seam line like the first one above

How To Strengthen Godet At The Upper Seam Line

The angle where godets and the upper seam line meet is usually very weak. This is what you can do to strengthen it:

  • At the angle, open the seam allowance
  • Sew a tiny bar catching stitch at the outside of the seam allowances of the godet and the upper seam.
  • Press the seam allowance gently into position from the inside of the garment

How To Make Godets In Clothes

  • Cut godets depending on which design you want, either full, medium full or soft fall godet
  • Sew the godets seams to positions
  • Secure thread ends
  • Place the garment with all the right sides up over the godets
  • At the hem line, pin together the edges of the godets
  • Machine stitch

How To Insert And Sew Godets Tutorials

How To Insert Godets Video Tutorial


Christabel Evans (author) from England, UK on May 03, 2012:

@RTalloni, I'm happy this tutorial will be of help to you RTalloni. Godets sewing was one of my difficult sewing, but after learning how to cut and insert them, it's a bit easy now. Thank you for your comment.

@That Grrl, it's not easy to know the names of all the garment styles that there are, godets is different from gores, then a-line and the rest of the names. Thank you for your visit.

Laura Brown from Barrie, Ontario, Canada on May 02, 2012:

I didn't know the name for that. Now I do. :)

RTalloni on May 02, 2012:

Thanks for a super tutorial on sewing godets into clothes. This could be useful to me in making fun clothes for girls.

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