Kimberly is a 19-year-old jewelry artist, soap maker, and crocheter. She lives happily with her boyfriend in northern Minnesota.
This pattern is made with 3 adjustable sizes in the back just like your everyday store bought bra. The lack of underwire in this bra also adds a lot of comfort, as you crochet very tight stitches along the bottom of your cups that act as an underwire that can never pop out in the washing machine or stab you as you wear them around. If you have read my last bra pattern you know I have sensitive armpits and cannot wear normal bras, which tends to be a problem with a larger chest, especially when dressing up. I began crocheting bras until one finally was supportive enough to hold my chest and not be bulky under my clothing. This bra is an adaptation of my original bra in double crochet stitches instead of half double and double like my last one, making it more beginner friendly. This particular bra was made with a skein of soft pink Caron Simply Soft.
Well, let's move onto the pattern now so you can get wearing your new bra.
Supplies and Abbreviations
5 mm crochet hook
Darning needle (for weaving in ends)
1 skein of Caron Simply Soft (or any other worsted weight 4 yarn)
DC- Double crochet
sc- Single crochet
Slst- Slip stitch
This pattern will have multiple size options, the smallest size will fit A-B cup, the medium C cup, and the largest a D cup. Make 2 cups.
Ch 17 (19, 22)
Row 1- DC into third Ch from hook and in each stitch across. Turn.
Row 2-6- Ch 2, DC into each stitch across. Turn.
Row 7- Ch 2, 1 DC into each stitch across until the last stitch. Once you reach the last stitch work 3 DC into it. Place a stitch marker in the second stitch of your increase. Turn down the side and work 2 DC into each DC row.
Row 8- Ch 2, DC into each stitch around. Turn.
Row 9-15- Ch 2, DC in each stitch. Turn.
D cup only Row 16-17- Ch 2, DC in each stitch across.
After row 15 turn down the side and begin working in the side of each DC row. Work 2 sc per row.
Once you reach the bottom work 1 sc into the bottom of each of your original ch stitches. You will not be working another row around this so crochet those stitches very tightly, you do not want to be able to fit your crochet hook back into them. If you have a hard time making tight stitches going down a mm in your crochet hook size can also be a good option.
2 sc into the side of each of the DC rows along the bottom. Once you get to the end of these rows and your back to the top of your DC stitches from the last row 1 sc into the first 5 DC stitches.
Once you have the 2 cups made use a darning needle and whip stitch the 5 sc you worked into the last row. This will connect your cups together so make sure you do tight whip stitches so it does not come undone as you wear it.
Row 1- Connect your yarn into the bottom corner of one of your cups, ch 2, and DC into the same stitch you joined into. DC into the next 3 stitches. Turn.
Row 2- 22 Ch 2, DC into each 4 of the DC from your previous row.
Tie off and fasten a button to the end of the side.
Join and work row 1 the same way as the previous rib band.
Row 2-16- Ch 2, 1 DC into each stitch across. Turn.
Row 17- Ch 2, DC in first stitch, ch 2, DC into ch 2 of last row. Turn.
Row 18- Ch 2, DC into the first DC, work 2 DC into the ch space, work 1 DC into the last stitch. Turn.
Row 19- Ch 2, DC in each stitch across. Turn.
Row 20- Ch 2, DC in first stitch, ch 2, DC into ch 2 of last row. Turn.
Row 21- Ch 2, DC into the first DC, work 2 DC into the ch space, work 1 DC into the last stitch. Turn.
Row 22- Ch 2, DC in each stitch across. Turn.
Row 23- Ch 2, DC in first stitch, ch 2, DC into ch 2 of last row. Turn.
Row 24- Ch 2, DC into the first DC, work 2 DC into the ch space, work 1 DC into the last stitch. Tie off.
If 24 rows is too large or small for you adjust it accordingly. Adjust on the first side that you will attach the button too first, that way you know how many rows you will need in total.
You will want to have to pull it slightly to touch your spine, but you will not want to pull it snugly. It should slightly stretch when you button it in the end so its snug, but not tight.
Connect into the top corner of your cup and ch 2.
Row 1- 1 DC into the same stitch you joined in, and 1 DC into the next stitch. Turn.
Row 2-32- Ch 2, DC into both stitches across. Turn.
If 32 rows is too large or small for you adjust it so that it snugly fits. It should be snug as most of the support in this bra comes from the tight stitches under the cups, and in the straps. This makes it so the rib band doesn't have to be as tight.
As stated above you can make several bras with a single skein of this yarn. For me this is absolutely amazing because it keeps my undergarments comfortable, custom fit, affordable, and for me wearable in general. For more customization you can weave ribbon through the top row of DC, organza ribbon, or a braided metallic yarn work really good for this.
I hope you all enjoyed this pattern and as always, happy hooking!
© 2019 TheNaturalRoze
Alexander James Guckenberger from Maryland, United States of America on January 06, 2019:
I look forward to the socks article when you find the time. :D It's not easy for me to buy socks in my size, so it makes sense. Plus, it would give me the chance to be creative.
TheNaturalRoze (author) on January 05, 2019:
Thank you me as well! Im actually looking into socks as well and am quite interested.
Alexander James Guckenberger from Maryland, United States of America on January 05, 2019:
You're very welcome honey. I hope this article catches on. I'm thinking about beginning to crochet socks soon.
TheNaturalRoze (author) on January 04, 2019:
Alexander James Guckenberger from Maryland, United States of America on January 04, 2019:
This is very creative.