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Setting up the New Fluval Edge


Fluval Edge Set-Up

Set-up - took about 30 minutes in all

Set-up - took about 30 minutes in all

Display box - well packed and solid - take care and it will never break

Display box - well packed and solid - take care and it will never break

The gits of the system a glass box with a collar

The gits of the system a glass box with a collar

Fluval Edge contents - add some gravel and water, and if you want, a heater

Fluval Edge contents - add some gravel and water, and if you want, a heater

Set-up - empty, waiting for water

Set-up - empty, waiting for water

Water has been added, it looks so good!

Water has been added, it looks so good!

Here small rainbows (Forktail and threadfins) and a botia have been added to run the system through the maturation period.

Here small rainbows (Forktail and threadfins) and a botia have been added to run the system through the maturation period.

Finally, the new Fluval Edge has arrived

Are you looking for something different in an aquarium?

Tired of having to buy a stand for every tank, just so the aquarium wont develop a stress crack? Do you have that perfect place for an elegant and sophisticated new aquarium?  If you answered yes to any of these questions, you are just like, me, you are ready for the newly introduced Fluval Edge aquarium. It is small, the capacity is only six U.S. Gallons, but it is radical.

The Fluval Edge aquarium system is truly a glass box, all six sides are enclosed, event the top!  There is a collar on the access hole, but otherwise the system is completely shut off.  It is a literal box of water and it makes for some interesting viewing angles.  Now that I have set-up mine, I am able to look at the fish from the top, just as if they were in a clear flowing river.  You simply can't do that with any of my other tanks. 

Standard aquariums all use a full light canopy over them to provide the illumination for the plants and to reduce evaporation as much as possible.  The downside is that the only time you can look down on the fish in a standard aquarium, the cover is off and that usually means there isn't any light to see them

The Edge design uses advanced halogen lighting (two small little bulbs) focused right in the center of the tank that light the entire system from all angles.  Depending on how agitated the surface is by the power filter's flow delivery, there is a gentle rippling effect and interesting light play throughout the system.  With halogen lighting I have no doubt that the nine assorted plants I put in there will do quite well as time goes by.

Since all the edges and plates of glass are completely sealed on all parts, the tank seems much stronger and should withstand any odd stresses that normally would crack a standard tank.  To reinforce this thought, the system comes with its own integrated stand.  The bottom pedestal actually only supports approximately a third of the bottom surface area. The rest allows unrestricted view from all angles, even the bottom if you like to look at the gravel from below. 

The stand is designed to house all the electrical components for the tank.  The supplied halogen lighting is supported on a light bar that swivels up and out of the way for easy hand  access through the open collar at the center of the tank.  The lights operate right over the aquarium surface during standard operation. They are not particularly strong, but throw a pleasant light throughout the entire tank. They create all sorts of shadows and light play that makes looking at the fish and their habitat very enjoyable.

The integrated stand also houses the integrated filtration.  The Edge uses one of my personal favorite filters. It seems to be a hybridized AquaClear system.  The cover has Edge etched in as the logo, but it is the same basic design as the smaller AquaClear systems. This means the filter utilizes all the volume in the filter chamber to provide maximum filtration for the space. 

The three standard AquaClear style inserts are included.  The small foam block for gross particulate removal, a carbon insert to remove dyes and chemical impurites and to polish the water to crystal clear.  The final media, the biological pellets, provide plenty of places to colonize huge numbers of beneficial bacteria to keep the biological filtration active and efficient. 

There isn't a lot of extra space in the stand to play with, but the filter fits in fine. There is space to run any electrical cords needed to run the equipment.  No allowance is made for any automatic style feeder when the cover is in place.

There is a list of "Edge Friendly" species shown on the box that can be used with the unit when it is set-up with the equipment included in the box. But I am a tropical fish enthusiast, so I got my hands on one of the heaters designed especially for the Edge.  It is a black metallic unit with no adjustment capability.  You get what the heater is pre-set to deliver.  I am told it should keep the tank about 78 F.  I

have a digital thermometer probe located in the tank, if you look you can see it in the pictures. The temperature shows about 80.2 when the light is on.  After the light has been off overnight, the reading shows 78.4 F. I somehow doubt the day/night change is that radical.  The probe is almost directly under the Halogen lighting, so I think there is some influence there.  I would say the evening temperature is the most accurate for the full volume of the aquarium, with the lights influencing the daytime reading because of probe location.

The view from the top is extraordinary, but to achieve this, the top had to be completely sealed.  Since the glass plates are flat, there is the chance that some air bubbles will be trapped at the top.  The perfectionist may want to "burp" the system occasionally by rocking the tank slightly to force the air to move to the collar and thus escape.  This works well when there is enough water in the collar, but if it is low, air will be let under the glass plate on the other side.  I also noticed that the system tells you when evaporation has become too great.  The filter will blow some air bubbles under the top plate and they will begin collect when water is not high enough in the collar.  If this occurs, it is usually best to add a cup or so of water to bring up the level in the collar before burping, or the result will be more air bubbles added under instead of less.

Set-up was easy and fast, it took less than a half hour, including gravel rinsing to go from box to install.  I allowed the system settle for a day before adding fish, mainly because I used two types of gravel, one was soft and seemed to cloud the water when it was added.  It took the day to settle and clear up.

The only warning I have to voice is that this is not your ordinary aquarium.  You have to remember that when you are working with it or adding fish, if you put your hands or a fish bag in the collar, the water level rises quite rapidly.  You need to drop the level at least a quarter of capacity if you need to access interior parts with your hands. Otherwise the tank will flood over the collar.

I love the look of the system, and so far the rainbows seem very happy.  There are eight, four forktails and four threadfin rainbows - two pairs of each. I put a botia in there as well since I added lots of live plants.  Chances are always good a snail or two will get in, even with rinsing theplants prior to placement.  The tank should only be used with small fish,  it is small and should not house fish that need to grow large. Otherwise, it will soon be time to add a larger tank to accommodate a rapidly growing pet.

The Fluval Edge is a tank that will sit almost anywhere there is a flat surface able to support around 60 pounds. The included stand absorbs any small surface variations, so the worry of a sudden break is quite remote.  Don't try to move it much full, the sloshing could break it faster than an uneven surface ever could.  You will also undoubtedly get wet!  But since there are no catches or guides for the stand to tank interface, it is easy to move it slightly to burp it.


blueram85 (author) from Montreal on June 04, 2012:

The heater is thermostatic, so depending on your room temperature, it will keep the tank at a level temperature. It may not be designed for the larger Fluvals, but if your ambient room temperature is relatively normal, it just means the heater will have all the warmth it creates absorbed into the tank.

Unless the tank staerts to drop in temperature, you should be alright.

I agree with the fish store, a bala shark just grows too large and requires long runs to be happy in a tank. Stay away from these types of fish, they need long tanks to allow them to feel comfortable swimming in the area.

Rap on May 30, 2012:

Just set up my 46 liter and am very happy...water got cloudy the 2nd day but after conditioning seems to be clearing...I have 4 dannios at the recommendation of aquarium store and would like to add a bala shark however they did not recommend due to size... Any thoughts? Also, I bought the fluval heater and seems to maintain 76-78 degree temp however the packaging said it was for 6 gal max?

tony on May 24, 2012:

i cant believe they went to all this trouble and didn't design something that also heated the water! Having an additional heater defeats the whole design principle of this tank. It totally put me off purchasing one.

Jo Godfray on March 25, 2012:


My heater's orange light has gone off, does this mean it is broken (I have just changed the water)

Nona on March 08, 2012:

To the poster who was having problems with turning on his light...I had the same problem when I set my Fluval Edge up this week. Everything went great until I decided to switch on the light. I have the LED style. I pushed down directly on the button and nothing happened. Finally, after playing with it, I realized that to turn it on, you have to almost use your thumbnail to push down on the left side of the button. Popped right on!

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on March 07, 2012:

I would talk to the store where you purchased it. The system should work easily and immediately. Not sure if you have the halogen or LED version (the newer ones have LED) but there isn't any real trick.

I know that earlier Halogen models occasionally blew out the transformer and that prevented the light form working, so it may be a problem with the electrical supply. Since that is connected to the light bar directly, you may have to exchange the entire light unit with the transformer attached.

Nona on March 06, 2012:

I just installed my new EDGE and everything looks great, except the light. It won't come on. Am I doing something wrong?

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on December 06, 2011:

The filter is designed to operate 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You need to operate the filter all the time to get proper purification. This is not a function of this aquarium, it really is the way that all aquariums should operate, with water filtration operating all the time.

The filters are not very loud, usually you should only hear the water returning to the aquarium through the waterfall output, It could be that the filter is pressed against the column and for some reason that is causing a vibration noise, also it is possible that the cover is not sitting correctly, you could remove it and see if that makes it more silent.

If the filter unit is loud, then you should discuss this with the place of purchase to see how it could be replaced. Either way, it should be running all the time.

johnny scifimafia on December 06, 2011:

I was wondering, we bought one today and notice when we switched on the filter it is quite noisy. How often do I have to turn the filter on for .

regards John

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on November 14, 2011:

I have had a few different types of fish in my Fluval Edge, the ones that have done best are the platies. They are doing quite well. I have also seen other Edges with platies in them.

The best thing about them is that they come in quite a numb er of varieties and colours, so that a tank of the same species is not boring. For more on selecting fish, I suggest you take a look at my main website, it provides lots of tips and tricks to success with aquariums of all sizes, and does have a number of suggestions for starter fish.


You might want to look at the link on selecting tropical fish

mummykins on November 13, 2011:

ive just bought the fluval edge for my children and haven't got any fish yet ,was looking for colourful ones could you recommend some please .

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on October 11, 2011:

The heater make and model is up to you, the Fluval is black and has no adjustment, there are others, but I woul duse something between 25 to 50 Watts only, probably the 25, remember there is very little open surface area, so heat dissipation should not be too much of an issue. If you want to control the actual temperature, then a submersible adjustable heater may be the way to go. I haven't had any problems with the Fluval Edge heater for the past couple of years, so that is the one I would stay with. But your aquarium inhabitants would be the ones that determine if you need an adjustable heater or one that is factory pre-set and not adjustable at all.

If you are going to use a different heater, make sure it is fully submersible and can be attached inside the aquarium. The small opening requires most of the edge to be used for the Fluval/AquaClear filter, so there is no space to clip on an external heater...

Steve Pond


mr t on October 11, 2011:

Hi Steve. Thanks for that, the info was very helpful. I was a bit concered about previous posts where someone said it overheated the water. Would a different brand of heater be ok or must it be fluval..

thanks. T.

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on October 10, 2011:

You are correct, the heater for an Edge is separate. It is calibrated to keep a single temperature, I believe 78 degrees. There is no adjustment on the unit. It is designed to keep the set temperature steady all the time - automatically. The unit is black and must be installed into the tank, it cannot be used externally to the aquarium or placed in the back column. With that said, it does not stand out much, when placed in the back and just left there.

The halogen lights might add a few degrees, but they only do so when they are running. When they are turned off, the tank would not be getting any extra heat. I now prefer to use replacement LED lights, and those do not add any heat, whether on or off. So, for my platies, I do use the heater, and very rarely notice it.

Steve Pond


mr t. on October 08, 2011:

I am thinking of getting the edge tank but it doesn't come with a heater. I have heard that you can buy them seperately.. this is a dumb question. do they have to go in the tank where it is visible or in the back.. Or are the lights sufficent to keep the tank warm.. thanks for your advice. T.

Jenner on August 11, 2011:

Great review, thank you. This tank just recently became available here in Germany, and we have recently purchased one to replace our BiUbe (which, has turned out to be an absolute pain in the @$$). My only concerns were it's size (22L is a step down from our current 35L) and the filter. I'm a proponent of using the largest capacity filter possible for the space permitted, and just think the Aquaclear mini (which is what's included) teeters on the edge of being not quite enough for this tank. We have purchased an Aquaclear 30 HOB for our setup. We keep a rather large colony of dwarf shrimp and tylomelania snails, and find the snails especially to be incredibly messy for their size, yet another reason to have the added filtration. We also had to construct a sponge pre-filter, as the shrimp (and I would imagine, smaller fish species) easily get sucked into the intake tube.

To the poster above who asked about blue lighting, yes it is possible to switch out the bulbs to whichever colour you like, providing you find them in the correct wattage. I have found both cool white and blue on Amazon.de, so they're more than likely also available on Amazon.com. Have a look there.

All in all, this tank gets 3 thumbs up (the third from the extra arm I had implanted) for design, functionality (a mini all-in-one that is healthy for aquastock and works well? Who'd have thought?!) and price. 100 bones is more than fair for such a system.

Cheers from the Black Forest.

Anonymous on June 20, 2011:

No need to burp the edge--just use the algae magnet to move the bubbles to the open port area.

I have to imagine that burping it, however carefully, may stress the seams.

Edge on!

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on June 03, 2011:

Best guess is that your tank is showing a New Tank Syndrome, this is where the aquarium becomes cloudy from a sudden bacterial bloom. Remember that when you use a water conditioner to remove chlorine, the bacteria are suddenly able to populate again (the chlorine in the tap water is there specifically to kill or neutralize them) If there are a lot of dissolved nutrients in the water, the bacterial population will explode and get so dense that they will be seen as a milky cloud to the naked eye.

You can find out a lot more about this problem at:


Steve Pond

helen smith on June 03, 2011:

i have had my fluval edge set up for 3 days now i washed all contents and the heater and filter is working fine but the water is very cloudy my friends is crystal clear am i doing anything wrong i haven't added any fish yet because of this problem

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on February 01, 2011:

I do use the plastic base, I see that as one of the actual improvements for the smaller desktop style aquarium in many years. The use of the smaller pedestal style removes any problems with trying to get a properly level support, and allows the unit to be raised high enough for the rear column to work correctly. It eliminates any stress from uneven surfaces and prevents any problem if the support surface warps. By removing the base pedestal and putting it on a mat, the entire surface area must support it, but the concentrated weight could cause serious warp-age problems in the future. The plastic pedestal will put a concentrated weight on support unit, but the plastic itself will not cause the aquarium over time, and any warps that occur from the concentration weight will not affect the aquarium, only the support surface itself.

Not really sure how you came to the idea I was not using a stand. The unit is installed exactly the way it is supposed to be according to manufacturer's directions. Without the pedestal, I don't think the rear column will fit right. I don't believe it would be as easy to allow the tank to be moved slightly up and down; effectively burping out any air when the water level drops below the column and then refilled.

I run the lights a lot and have not had too much problem with cleaning. To be honest the algae that has grown on the sides will be suitably removed with the algae magnets for the system, the problem is making them go around the corners without falling off the glass and have to restart the glide. Once they are positioned on the glass plate to be cleaned, they do a pretty good job.

Laura on January 30, 2011:

I just bought the fluval edge for my son's room yesterday. I see in your pictures above that you removed the base. Has that caused any problems for you? Does it compromise the structure/security/safety of the tank at all? I'm thinking of doing this with a thin rubber mat under it. Thanks!

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on August 22, 2010:

I have never seen blue lighting for the Fluval Edge system, the transformer can run LED lights if they are the right type - if memory serves - they are 12 V MR-11 9 LED lights, but even in those, I have never seen blue bulbs. You might want to look around at the bulbs that are available, but always ensure you stay within the parameters of the Halogen bulbs offers as standard, I have heard of two wattages, and the higher value is NOT recommended.

royzer on August 21, 2010:

can i get a blue lights for my fluval edge

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on July 27, 2010:

The heater is just like most other heaters, if the heater is operating, the pilot light will be lit, when the proper temperature (or above) is reached, the heater should shut off and no light will be lit.

Hope that helps.

Tracey on July 24, 2010:

Does the fluval Edge Heater light supposed to be lit at all times? Just put mine in, and NO light and can't tell if it's working or not? Any help or suggestions for me??

Thanks so much!

Brian Hinson on June 25, 2010:

I can confirm that my betta is doing great in the tank. Also, when I first put him in, he did seem to stress for a moment to find the place for air, but it only happened once. After he found it, he has been perfectly fine. I don't believe people realize it is a pretty big area, though the "water fall" from the filter on low seems best, at first. He seemingly does fine now even when it is on high, even sleeping comfortably. I really don't think it needs to be on high for such a small tank? I think the low provides adequate agitation for the water. On low it should cycle the whole tank 5.5 times an hour, that seems good to me?

He has been in there now for 3 days, and he seems to love it. He now even "plays" under the water fall! We purchased two bettas, one is in a typical small container, the other in the Edge. The one in the Edge is noticeably happier. I believe I will get another edge to put in my office and put the other betta in there, so he too can be happy and have a nice home.

I've read so much great info about starting out with a new tank, going through "the cycle" and betta's in particular. I feel very confident in my knowledge, I believe I will have no problems and I know what to expect during the cycle. It being a fresh water tank with only one fish, I am sure helps tons.

I'm thinking of possibly getting an african dwarf frog and/or some neon tetras to join the betta, assuming they can co-exist. The information on the internet is somewhat divide (i.e. contradictory) over the issue of what can co-exist with a betta. I might perhaps only keep the betta in there, which is just fine, he is lively. Any suggestions for a couple of roommates is welcome, even if the answers is no roommates. I'd rather know ahead of time before anything kills each other :)

thanks for the help.

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on June 25, 2010:


The Fluval Edge is probably is an excellent aquarium for a Betta as far as size is concerned, but it may not be perfect, since Bettas are anabantoids - which means they can breath air - and the surface of the aquarium is limited by the design. The surface that is available is probably quite agitated by the filter return. Again, for the people who keep Bettas alone, that is not much of a problem, since one Betta cannot breed. However, if you should ever get to the stage of breeding Bettas, the agitation on the limited surface area will destroy the bubble nests the male will try to make.

With all that said, the exposed surface area is as much, or more than most Bettas ever see in a bowl or other small container they are usually kept. So there is no real issue with the aquarium, and it is admittedly much larger and comfortable for them compared to the standard containers they normally are seen in.

The Edge's filter uses a waterfall effect to return the water, and this can draw air into the water stream. That is where you are getting the bubbles from. Raising the level into the collar does reduce them by a large amount. I try to keep a quarter to half inch of water or so in the collar to allow the full beauty of the aquarium, and top viewing area as visible as possible.

Gravel cleaners are the best way to keep any aquarium bottom clean, so you will need to get one in the relatively near future. It does disturb the bottom, so you need to have a consistent substrate there, if you made patterns with differen coloured gravels, they will become mixed as time goes by, and the gravel cleaner will cause this.

In the Fluval Gravel Cleaner, it is a self start unit, you rapidly shake it up and down to get the siphon started. Once it is flowing, the gravity of the lower water output keeps it going. It may take a few minutes to get the feel of using it, and preventing the gravel from getting caught in the top area, but it is the way to keep everything cleaner over time.

Putting plants in is not a problem, even right in the beginning, just remember to drop the water level (a gravel cleaner will do this for you easily,) before you put your hands into the aquarium. The small opening with the collar means that the water you displace with your hands in the tank will rise rapidly and easily overflow, so just be aware of that.

Brian Hinson on June 24, 2010:

Also, do I understand correctly that when the filter is going I shouldn't see bubbles formed? This means that I do not have the water level high enough?

When the filter is on high, I do get many bubbles, and they do stay under the top glass. I've been using a mag float to get rid of the bubbles. I've now poured more water in, and no bubbles!

I hope I've understood this correctly?

Brian Hinson on June 24, 2010:

Hi, I'm a first timer and I chose the Fluval Edge for it's size and look. I'm keeping a single betta in there right now (only been 2 days now), and I'm thinking of adding a water sprite and java fern. He seems happy as can be for now, and the water is clean and clear (to the eye). I've used water conditioner as directed.

Anyhoo, I figured I will need the gravel cleaner at some point, but I'm not sure how to use it? Do I need some sort of vacuum to hook it too? I don't actually have one yet, but considering getting one soon.

Thank you for your information, it was helpful.

Brian Hinson on June 24, 2010:

Hi, I'm a first timer and I chose the Fluval Edge for it's size and look. I'm keeping a single betta in there right now (only been 2 days now), and I'm thinking of adding a water sprite and java fern. He seems happy as can be for now, and the water is clean and clear (to the eye). I've used water conditioner as directed.

Anyhoo, I figured I will need the gravel cleaner at some point, but I'm not sure how to use it? Do I need some sort of vacuum to hook it too? I don't actually have one yet, but considering getting one soon.

Thank you for your information, it was helpful.

blueram85 on April 15, 2010:

Sounds like a variety of problems, and some oncoming ones very possibly in the near future. I never, ever recommend a complete water change, no matter the circumstances. It changes everything about the tank, debilitates the biological filter and usually causes nothing but stress for the fish.....plus this is right in the middle of spring and that has a lot of other associated problems with the water quality from the tap.

First, you mention 3 casualties, but not what they were, depending on the timing, that may have been due to a number of factors, but the mention of murky water is a tip-off that there may be one of two problems in the environment, depending on the colour of the water.

If the water was going green and murky, that is probably as the result of too much light, possibly the increasing daylight as spring arrives. In cases like this, it is usually as a result of sunlight hitting the aquarium. Moving the aquarium out of bright sunlight is a way to somewhat reduce the problem.

The more common cause of cloudy water, when it is whitish and looks like someone spilled a glass of milk in it is usually the result of a bacterial bloom - the tank may have been overfed or it had a recent water change where the amount of dissolved nutrients in the water was exceptionally high. This often occurs after a heavy rain in spring where the wastes and rotting debris from the past winter are washed into the reservoirs and the municipal water company needs to combat this with added chlorine or chloramine. If the deaths came close after a water change, there may have been extra chlorine or maybe even chloramine in the water that was not properly neutralized by the water conditioner. I routinely use at least double doses of the product to ensure there is no chlorine. With most standard water consitioners there is little, if any, danger from overdose of chlorine remover, and a lot of danger with an underdose.

The water companies must make water safe to drink, but hey rarely purify the water they ship, so when chlorine or chloramine are remoed,, bacteria spores in the water bloom rapidly, especially if the water is heavily laden with dissolved elements from spring run-off. Never add water right after a rainfall, and if possible minimize the amount of water added to any aquarium during springtime - wait as long as possible after the spring run-off as possible and use smaller water changes during this period.

Cloudy water is pretty common, and usually occurs three days after a new aquarium is set up - called New Tank Syndrome, or when too much food is dissolved in the water, smetimes ovefeeding will make this happen. In this case, the bacteria in the water column can multiply out of control. When that occurs, a milky cloud, visible to the naked eye, will appear. It is just a very high concentration of bacteria in the water that is being encouraged by perfect conditions for bloom. Removing the source, by not feeding for three days often allows the bactgeria to use up the available food resources and then die back. If the water smelled as well, there is a good chance that the dead fish were left for a while in the tank and started to decay, either triggering the problem, or at minimum adding to the wastes available for the bacteria to use.

While the bacteria in the water column are not the ones which are considered the beneficial bacteria, they still should not be pulled out and the tank broken down. A tank that has been up for two months has a great chance of having a mature biological filter available, and removing all the water, rinsing and cleaning all the rocks, gravel and decorations and then startring over is just that, starting over. The bacteria that you need have been killed during the teardown, and the aquarium starts fresh, taking the six week period to regain the bioliogical filter that is vital for removing the toxins the fish produce on their own, ammonia and nitrite. The new water is often radially different from the water the fish were swimming in as well, temperature, pH, hardness and many other characteristics change over time, and new water is rarely similar, so the fish will be stressed by the sudden change in water characterisitics, along with the netting and movement from place to place. All those conditions set up for a final disaster where everything wipes out, they just poison themsselves with their own wastes.

As far as action is concerned, leave the tank alone, feed only as much food as the fish can eat in two minutes with nothing hitting the bottom - ONCE a day. Allow the conditions to settle and don't adsd any more fish until the system has re-stabilized, it may not take the fuill six weeks, but ammonia and nitrite may spike, and should be tested regularly to track all changes. If the water is murky white, don't feed for three days, let the bacteria use up the dissolved reserves in the water, and the tank will probably clear in a few days. When feeding resumes, feed only once a day as per above recommendation.

If the water was going green, move the tank out of the light and possibly reduce the amount of time the lights are used over the tank.

Hope that helps.

Danielle on April 14, 2010:

We have had an edge tank now for 2 months. We stocked with 2 shrimp, and 5 guppies. We do regular water changes (well 1/4 change once a week) and this week we have had 3 casulties. We ended up doing a complete cleaning and water change as we did notice the tank getting merky. Any suggestions or comments. I love this tank and would like to know what i am doing wrong.


blueram85 (author) from Montreal on March 30, 2010:

The filter only uses a single moving part, the impeller. Depending on the last time you serviced the unit, it could be that some debris has gotten into the impeller well.

I know it is not as easy to remove the filter for cleaning as with a tank that does not use the inside of the pedestal to hide the wire, but you probably need to shut off power, separate the filter from the pedestal and take it to the sink. Then remove the water in the chamber and remove the motor - a quarter turn loosens the motor so it can be pulled down form the filter casing for rinsing. Remove the impeller and inspect it, if there is damage to it, then it might require replacement. Rinse it off as well as the impeller well to remove any built up wastes that may have settled there.

Another possibility is that the pedestal has moved somewhat and the filter is somehow vibrating the system to make noise. Make sure the tank is squarely on the pedestal and not touching any other areas but where it hangs form the tank.

Also, remove the lid and see if that stops the rattle. It may have been dislodged somewhat and is vibrating on the filter chamber.

saff on March 30, 2010:

Hi mate. Got a noisy filter. Any suggestions.

blueram85 (author) from Montreal on February 09, 2010:

I have never kept the Neolamprologus multifasciatus, so really can't give a good opinion on them. Although from a brief look at their size and characteristics, I would definitely consider them to be a good match. In fact, if I see some in the near future, I will seriously consider adding them and moving the threadfins out to one of my other tanks, probably the one with the aggazziz in it, that tank is verrryyyy peaceful.

I do know that the Edge heater has been working really well for the tank, so the temperature is good enough, if you aren't going to spring for the heater, then I would tend to try some tetra species, although neons might be better to wait until the system has had a chance to mature and the ammonia and nitrite are a thing of the past. I have found neons to be more and more delicate as they have inbred and can wipe out too fast in a new tank. Neon Tetra disease is just too common and deadly to give the fish any stress like ammonia and nitrite concentrations.

My biases are showing, I like Africans best, so the multies would be a choice if I had them available around here. In my case they would quickly wipe out the other occupants, but the concept of keeping multiple generations like so many other Africans - but with the smallest known cichlid would make them an appealing choice - depending on availability.

Jonathan on February 08, 2010:

Great review! I've been looking at one of these for my office and I think I'm sold. I'm thinking of putting 3-5 neon tetras, 1 Otocinclus and maybe a couple of snails. OR I may end up with 3-5 Neolamprologus multifasciatus (Shell-dwellers) Do you think either set up would be over doing it? I'm ok doing maintenance since I'm n my office 45-65 hours per week but want the fish to not be stressed as well.

blueram85 on November 16, 2009:

The tanks stays pretty clean, and there are some special accessories available that work well. The first is a triangular net that fits into the corners. Haven't had to use it to chase any fish yet, but the handle is very long and it seems to get where I need to go.

The next is an algae magnet that is specially shaped to get into all the nooks and crannies that are not there with most regular aquariums without a sealed top. The tank is lasting well, the only problem is that evaporation allows air bubbles into the top. But bringing the water level into the collar solves most of that. The tank is small enough that it is not a problem to tip it slightly to allow the air to slide out the collar.

The third piece in the cleaning puzzle is a very long stemmed gravel cleaner. I will admit the way I added the substrate, with a layer for the plants covered by the actual gravel substrate makes me a little less enthusiastic about mixing the gravel up. The gravel cleaner for the Edge is the one I use almost exclusively now in all my small tanks. The two cleaning acessories for the end make it easier to get into the gravel and clean it, no matter whether there is a sealed top or not.

Katelyn Weel from Ontario, Canada on November 13, 2009:

This looks like it would be impossible to clean